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Lubricate Clutch without Engine Drop
After my engine drop and transmission fix, I have found a rubbing noise when the clutch is fully depressed. I adjusted the pedal throw and now the clutch travel is only far enough to engage/disengage. But the last bit still causes a relatively quiet, yet disconcerting rubbing noise.
Is there a way to lubricate whatever is making this noise without dropping the engine again? Before the engine drop, there was an occasional very quiet noise, so I don't suspect anything more than a lack of lubrication. EDIT: This seems to describe the situation pretty well - (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/666787-clutch-noise.html). It still seems odd that this issue would crop up without any changes being made to the clutch setup. |
No way that I know of. Did you replace the T/O bearing? Did you lube the input shaft with grease? How about lubricating the fork rotation point, not the tip. Did you inspect the tips of the fork for acceptable wear?
There is no other lubrication that is recommended at the clutch. |
I didn't add any grease on the input shaft or fork rotation point. Didn't suspect there would be any issues with the throw-out bearing so that was untouched.
The fork looked fine, although I didn't do any careful inspection of it. Might it be possible to lubricate the fork via the little inspection hole? |
I know you hate it but an engine drop on your car is 2 hours in the driveway. Save the oil if you want. It is doable in one Saturday. Just get to it.
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I can stomach another drop. Second is easier than the first, right? Do you suppose it is just the lack of lubrication? I'll see if I can get a recording of what I hear online shortly.
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Here is a recording of the noise. It makes me self-conscious at traffic lights. :rolleyes:
<iframe width="640" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bJQ_gxk7ezI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I can,t hear a thing on your video but if you have a whirring noise when depressed I would suspect the TOB is failing.(You didn,t change it) .A failed throwout can still last a long long time but will get louder
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Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6734030-post2.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/994991-post1.html |
It will fail in both modes, pedal up or down.
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The T/O bearing will make noise if worn when there's a load on the bearing. When you depress the clutch pedal that loads the bearing by pushing on the teeth of the pressure plate to release clamping pressure on the disc. Did you replace the pressure plate? If not you should.
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Oh man this is deja vu. I wanted ideas to lube without dropping but unfortunately I had to drop it and replace TO bearing and Seal ( don't forget this part ) while I was in there the pilot bearing. In retrospect I should have replaced the pressure plate.
Lubing it will help but after awhile it will come back, a new TOB will be needed, ask me how I know :-/ I have new pressure plate and NOS of the Sachs clutch ready to go on my next drop |
I'm having trouble finding the TO bearing parts in the PP catalog. Any pointers?
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Thanks to some advice from Draco I have bandaided the problem with molylube aerosol spray. Getting ready for another engine drop to do the TO bearing and its friends.
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My pleasure but I can not take credit, Previous Pelicans directed me to this temp fix, Fellas, don't let it intimidate you, just reach in and place a finger in the inspection hole. you can actually feel the TOB and Fork. If you feel around you will also feel part of the guide tube.
It will be easier to disconnect the strut and heater tube. Bend the sprayer tube of the lubricant and short blast, and that is it. Let it sit over night the test drive. It will feel much better and lighter. But as Osomoore stated it is only a bandaid, a proper replacement is required. You can also use chain lube, pretty much anything that will leave a tacky residue so it will not just drip off and dry out. |
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