High beams only work if I hold back the stalk. Just Replace stalk ?
 

I am going to replace the steering wheel bushing (PEL-ML-STR), so I thought to address the high beams while the steering wheel is off.

Low beams work correctly.

When I pull the stalk towards me to "flash to pass", the high beams work properly.

But, when I push the stalk away from me, the stalk firmly clicks into place, but the lights totally go dark. Not even low beams are on.


I'd like to get both done at once. With shipping taking a week, I'd prefer to order the new stalk unless there's a high probability the original is easy to fix.

Can my stalk typically be fixed, or should I just order part number 911-613-305-01-M78 for $125 (SWF) and be prepared to replace it?

Oh, PO did an H4 upgrade, but I'm not sure if the tech installed relays. Where is the best place to look?
If I don't see them, should I just order the Pelican relay kit? JWST-911-HLPR. That has quality relays?
The relays can be done indep. of the steering wheel job, but I'll include them in this order.

UPDATE:
I ended up replacing the turn signal stalk for $125.
My brights now can stay on!
It took a while, but was doable for the beginner.

1. Take off steering wheel.
2. Take apart clamshell housing.
3. Remove old turn signal stalk.
4. Remove headlight switch for easier wire transfer
5. Unclip all turn signal connections.
6. Snake out old turn signal.
7. Feed wires from new turn signal
8. Make all connections
9. Reinstall everything

There are 3 wire harnesses that feed into the headlight switch.
http://i59.tinypic.com/b8spbd.jpg

I wrote them all down, in case someone ever mixes something up.
This is from a '86 coupe

Turn signal stalk harness
White/black -> 56
Grey/black -> 58L (inside)
Grey/red -> 58R (inside)
Red/white -> 75

Plug Prong harness
Grey/black -> 58L (outside)
Grey/red -> 58R (outside)
Grey solid -> 58 (between 56 & 30)
Grey/white -> N
White/green -> 57
Black/blue -> 58a

Electrical tape wrapped harness
Red/white -> 75
Red solid -> 30
Blue/black & Black/blue -> 58a

if you are looking for relays for the headlights, there is a kit here that is fine. JWST-911-HLPR
As for the stalk fix, I think there may be a fix. I say that only because my hi beams turn on when the turn signal returns home - and there is a fix for that. And my stalk is only a few years old. Perhaps the h-beams can be fixed in a similar manner that someone can share / point to.

Here's a link to a repair thread. The switch can be fixed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/248149-turn-signal-switch-quick-fix-pictures.html#post2200515

Disconnect the ground at the battery while fiddling about or you might be buying a new switch.

you can either bend the contacts in the old switch, or buy a new one.

I had a similar problem. My High beams would flick on over bumps. The place where I buy some of my parts told me I had to replace the switch.

On removing the switch and a good look inside. I discovered the contacts could not only be accessed but manipulated to gain the correct clearances.

A good inspection and a bit of common sense will save you some $ on this.

The switch sounds like it fails in two ways. One is with bad contacts. The other is with a failed toggle "clicker" action. My high beam stalk doesn't click. Is that a different issue than the fixable bent contact point issue?

I'm just curious. Are you pushing the stock forward for high beam or pulling back expecting it to be like many American cars are?

Read the attached link, it should be clear.
It is a mechanical switch that makes electrical contact, so if it is not right mechanically then it can't function, and yes the clicks are/were related to proper function. If you do get it to work it might not feel or sound as it did previously.

If a relay kit was installed with the H4's then it would most likely be in the frunk right near fuse 1 on the fuse panel since the high beam low beams are on fuses 5 thru 8. When I did mine I used the Bosch round relay connectors and have them hanging right next to the cover near fuse 1. They can either sit right behind the carpet or be pulled out on top of the carpet.

Here is a clarification. When I pull the stalk towards me to "flash to pass", the high beams work properly.

But, when I push the stalk away from me, the stalk firmly clicks into place, but the lights totally go dark. Not even low beams are on.

Clean/adjust the contacts. A little fine sandpaper will remove any corrosion and they will be like new.

It is normal for the low beams to go out when you select the high beams with the directional stalk. This would mean that the stalk is not making contact with the high beam contact when you select them to be on. It is also possible that if the relays were installed they were not wired in correctly. The schematic below is not pretty but it was what I did to add the relays for the higher wattage H4 lamps.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412694556.jpg

use this drawing because I did not show were I cut the circuit. this one has the cuts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412695049.jpg

I'll hold of on buying a new stalk. When I do the bushing, I'll try to remove the stalk and clean the contacts.

But, if the shop incorrectly wired the high beams, I'll probably have to take it to a pro. I doubt I can debug and correct a professionals work. That wiring diagram is beyond my pay grade. If there were pictures and directions, I could follow that.

This gives me pause to attempt the relay project. I've only read how simple it is, but that diagram is Greek to me.

The relay project is quite simply:

1. Unplug battery
2. Unplug wires from appropriate spot on fuse panel
3. Plug in Relay
4. Plug in battery

Vast majority of the time will be spent fishing the relay wires behind the fuse panel for a clean install. ;)

I have the same issue with the Hi-beam going on when the turning signal switch returns. Something to fix.

However, here is a picture how I did the H4 relays install.

http://airboxer.com/images/H4-006.jpg

Here is the complete install, with the information what parts are needed.

Engelbert's Garage - Cars - Autocross - Car Racing and Porsches

Cheers
Engelbert

Mine did the exact same thing, fixed in 10 minutes using the above info.

I'd like to examine the cross section of the high and low beam contacts, like in the photos.

Do I just remove each screw on both sides? Then what? Pull the casing apart?
Strange fastener. I wonder how the screw holds the top and bottom casing together.
http://i58.tinypic.com/15ezqkh.jpg

I looked for relays, and didn't see anything obvious.
I see some wiring tucked underneath the large gas tank tube, but do not know it that's all stock.

My (+) battery terminal has 3 main connected to it.
1 thick cable that probably goes to the starter.
1 thin black cable.
1 harness of smaller red cables.

Are all 3 part of the OEM configuration?
Or could one of these be a direct power source for relay enabled headlights ?

http://i62.tinypic.com/2dvuzc2.jpg

My high beam/low beam went wrong a few months ago. This time I couldn't for the life of me figure out which one to bend. I'd done it a couple of times in the last 20 years successfully. So this time I just blasted it with spray on contact cleaner and worked the switch about 20 times. Yay, it goes again. Worth a try.

You need to pull the steering wheel to access that stalk. Do you have a workshop manual?

You have to remove the steering wheel, see below, there are 2 screws, where one of the logs broke.

http://airboxer.com/images/P1120994s.jpg

Cheers
Engelbert

I just replaced mine when it went with a new OE Porsche one. Clearly not the cheapest option, but I'm happier for it at the end of the day. Much smoother/crisper action and genuinely feels good to use.

Next up, throwing the cruise control lever down a well.

Engelbert,

I can't imagine how the side screw that is directly on a seam of 2 detachable pieces does anything.
It certainly can't bind the 2 halves together.
Are you saying the side screws don't really secure the casing together?
Maybe they just prevent horizontal movement?

How are those 4 raised eyelets (with one broken) in your photo used?
Are they held in by long screws that are part of the steering wheel?
They are staggered so it's hard to understand what goes through them. 4 different screws?

The bottom line is that I need to remove the steering wheel in order to remove the casing?
I wonder how so many people are removing the steering wheel and adjusting contacts in only 10 minutes!

Ok, so how do you remove the steering wheel?
I see no where to grab or pry on the front of the horn rectangle.
Do I just grab the back and yank towards the back of the car?
Here is a photo of the rear. Where do I grab?
In the photo, I removed the left side backing plate. Is that necessary?
http://i60.tinypic.com/5lzcxg.jpg

I just grab it left and right and pull where you have that yellow or orange dot. At least that what I did on the 87 911 and the 86 944 and the pad came off.

For the 87 911 you need a 27mm socket. If you need to buy one, try to get one with the thin wall 12 point. The 87 steering wheel has not much space for a big socket. The SC 3 spoke wheel has a little more space.

Hope this helps.

PS: once you have the steering wheel off, it would be a good time to replace the gauge light with LED's, because the tach is so much easier to remove.

Cheers
Engelbert

Ok, I will grab the outer edges of the horn pad and pull it off.

I have an '86.

I like the old yellow lights in the dash. Gives it a nice vintage analog look.

Ok, I was able to examine my high beam stalk today.

For the outer set of contacts, I see how the low beams are always in contact.
When you pull the brights in "flash to pass" mode , the outer low beam contacts are disengaged, and the INNER contact engages.
However, when I push the stalk to click the brights to stay on, that inner contact doesn't engage.
Has anyone fixed this before?

I replaced my high beam stalk tonight.
My brights now can stay on!
It took a while, but was doable for the beginner.

1. Take off steering wheel.
2. Take apart clamshell housing.
3. Remove old turn signal stalk.
4. Remove headlight switch for easier wire transfer
5. Unclip all turn signal connections.
6. Snake out old turn signal.
7. Feed wires from new turn signal
8. Make all connections
9. Reinstall everything

There are 3 wire harnesses that feed into the headlight switch.
http://i59.tinypic.com/b8spbd.jpg

I wrote them all down, in case someone ever mixes something up.
This is from a '86 coupe

Turn signal stalk harness
White/black -> 56
Grey/black -> 58L (inside)
Grey/red -> 58R (inside)
Red/white -> 75

Plug Prong harness
Grey/black -> 58L (outside)
Grey/red -> 58R (outside)
Grey solid -> 58 (between 56 & 30)
Grey/white -> N
White/green -> 57
Black/blue -> 58a

Electrical tape wrapped harness
Red/white -> 75
Red solid -> 30
Blue/black & Black/blue -> 58a

Congrats and Nice Contribution to the Fellowship :D

Low beams don't work and high beams don't stay on
 

hello, I was hoping someone could help. I have a 996 2003. Recently the low beams stopped working and then I noticed that the high beams also don't turn on.

Low beams - I rotate the headlight switch - the parking lights come on, but when I rotate to next position (low beam position) the low beams do not come on.

High beams - I use the stalk lever to turn on high beams. Pushing it forward, it clicks into position, but the high beams do not come on. I pull it backwards (temporary position) and the high beams DO come on.

I checked the fuses and they are all okay. I checked the voltage at the fuse - for low beams, I do not see any voltage at the fuse when I turn the light switch on. For the high beams, I do not see any voltage at the fuse when I turn the stalk/lever to high beam position (but I do see voltage there when I pull the stalk/lever to the temporary high beam position).

I think it is the switch, but that would mean BOTH the headlight switch and the stalk/lever are bad?

I saw the message about cleaning/bending the stalk/lever switch to maybe fix the stalk/lever problem. Do I have to remove the steering wheel if I am just trying to clean the switch or can I get access without removing the steering wheel.

Thanks for any help you can give me

What's being described above applies to earlier 911s (up through 1989) -- Suspect your 2003 996 uses very different parts and has different issues/solutions.

You should probably post this on the 996 forum

I was having a similar problem with my hi beams. The contacts had been adjusted and cleaned earlier. It turned out the pin holding the turn signal lever in place had drifted partially out of place. This allowed the lever to rotate enough to push the contacts together. A little epoxy and the switch/lever operate as they should. I second the replacement of the dash lights with LEDs. Huge improvement