My doors don't seem to close all the way?

tmblackflag · 05-20-2013, 06:31 PM

I've noticed on my 86 3.2 that the doors have to be closed ather firmly. Then, when standing at he rear of the car and observing the door it seems t stick out a few millimeters from full closure.

Wen I open my doors they also seem to "fall out" in that they spring open like they were already halfway out when the handle was pulled. I put some white lithium grease in the door latch but it didn't help. Is there anything that can be adjusted?

dipso · 05-20-2013, 06:38 PM

First make sure your weatherstripping is not causing the problem. If the weatherstripping is folded or out of place, that could cause the door to not shut all the way.

If that looks O.K., the strike plate on the jamb is adjustable.

porschenut · 05-20-2013, 08:00 PM

The doors can be adjusted so they close flush with the body. The adjustment is in the door latch receiver on the door jamb. Loosen the bolts and the receiver can be adjusted in or out. Yours need to go in a little so the doors fits flush when closed.

will hung · 05-21-2013, 03:56 AM

Before adjusting the door latch receiver to "tighten" the door, make sure the window frame is adjusted properly too. My driver side door is as you describe. I was going to adjust the door latch receiver, but noticed that my window frame is angled a little too far inward. So it contacts the door seal more than the door. I will need to angle it back out first and then pull the rear of the door inward.

Just another project...

E Sully · E Sully's Garage

A couple of things you might check are the bushings at the hinge, and if the plastic sandwiched in the striker plate is cracked. My car had a similar problem and new striker plates took care of it.
Porsche 911 Chassis Panels & Sheet Metal - Page 3

X JBM X · 05-31-2013, 07:29 AM

what tool removes the bolts from the striker plate?

I tried a #6 Allen wrench, but it's slipping within the bolt, and I'd really like to avoid stripping it.

E Sully · E Sully's Garage

I believe it's called a triple square. Found at local auto parts.

Cooper911SC · 05-31-2013, 07:41 AM

It is a triple square XZN fastener. (12 sided) I think M8 if I remember correctly.

You can likely find sizes M6 thru M10-12 in the tool section at most auto parts stores. They will be short bits than you can use with a 13mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet.

Cooper

X JBM X · 05-31-2013, 08:00 AM

Thanks guys!!

X JBM X · 05-31-2013, 11:29 AM

FWIW, the 8mm from the local Pep Boys was ever so slightly too large... they didn't have anything smaller, so I'll have to keep looking.

Can anyone confirm the size?

frannyB · frannyB's Garage

Hi Jesse,

I just did this a couple nights ago on the passenger side and I had a metric Allen that fit very snugly and seemed to work just fine without cheesing out the head. It took several tries to get it just right. You can move it straight in or out, but you can also rotate it a tad too if need be.

I added a small dab of silicone grease to the mechanism and it was much happier.

Franny

X JBM X · 05-31-2013, 12:05 PM

Thanks Franny - I tried an Allen key also. it worked on one of the bolts, but the second is becoming rounded over and I don't want to mess it up further... the Allen key just doesn't fit it well enough to turn the bolt without stripping it.

frannyB · frannyB's Garage

Well, the correct tool is always best

I chimped it and got away with it. I wonder if Harbor Freight would have a set...

f

daleflesburg · 05-31-2013, 03:20 PM

I need to adjust mine too, move the striker down a bit. McMaster Carr has them from M4 to M12. Is anyone sure about the size? They are like $5 each and I do not want to buy 3 or 4 when one is all I need.

Thanks

X JBM X · 05-31-2013, 04:10 PM

Good idea on Harbor Freight. There's one not too far away!!

lateapex911 · 05-31-2013, 05:12 PM

Ift he car has ever had the quarters replaced, it could be an issue with the quarter being in to the body too far, which makes it difficult to get the door to compress the weatherstripping far enough to close properly. Highly doubt thats the issue....
Always check the basics: hing sagging? Post and striker ok?

SCadaddle · 05-31-2013, 10:36 PM

I would suggest you take some tape, such as the blue painters tape, and tape yourself an "offset line" a few millimeters or 1/4 inch or so outside and parallel to the striker plate lines/shape so when you do start moving it you can tell where it was when you started and before you started making adjustments.

mreid · 06-01-2013, 08:00 AM

Adjusting the latch is not going to completely solve the problem based on how the op described the problem. The weatherstripping or trim are keeping the door from closing properly. Resolve this problem first, then determine if the striker requires adjustment.

p911dad · p911dad's Garage

I am reposting this 2013 thread because I found it to be very useful. I had the same problem as the original poster with the trailing edge of one of the doors sticking out a few mm. I got the 8mm triple square M8 bit from Mac Tools. The hint of using the blue painter tape to mark the original striker plate location was spot on. I loosened the screws, moved the striker plate in a bit and got a perfect alignment first time. This had been bugging me for the last 20 years and I just got to it, LOL. When the door closes now it gives a great "thunk".

DaveMcKenz · 04:07 PM

I went through this process recently as well. As Will Hung said, my window frame was leaning in too far and kept the door from closing easily. To make the closure OK, the PO moved the latch plate out about a 1/4". That's how far out my door stuck from the rear quarter. I pulled my door trim and was able to adjust the window frame for good contact and flush door alignment.
Good luck,
Dave