Rear sway bar trailing arm mount
 

I have a friend who has an SC.
One trailing arm is probably replaced since it has the old cup/ball sway bar mount, the other has the later "screw" mount.

How are these mounts attached to the aluminum trailing arm? Can they be unscrewd from the arm, even the ball?

I don't know if it's possible to unscrew them - but he could bypass the original mount altogether. Pelican sells a droplink by Tarett that mounts to the spring plate and it's adjustable.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...s/911RDLNK.jpg

I have the type that mounts to the swing arm. I think it is Weltmeister but I'm not positive. it looks just like the Tarett mounts above.

Here's mine installed: (and yes, they are removable).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415283138.jpg

Does anyone know if the " ball" can be replaced with these nice adejustable drop links???

It seems like it would make cornerweighting the car quicker.

thanks,
chris

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415285568.jpg

I made my own to tit the later bar to my 75

To answer your question - No the mount (ball or stud) can not be removed or changed. They are cast into place when the trailing arm was manufactured. A very skilled machinist could drill it out, or cut off the ball and thread the remaining stud, but it's not worth the effort. Used trailing arms are easily had. I have a pair of ball type that came off of my '74, but they would not be the proper fit for an SC. The SC style suspension has a much better sway bar system.
I changed mine to SC style. Chase the link in my signature line and you'll see how I switched mine out.
-C

Thanks, that was what I wanted to know.

I know there are workarounds like the Tarett.

I would just bypass the trailing arms altogether and use the Tarett links.

Crazy....I have the same issue with my 1978 Targa that I bought a couple of months ago. I ultimately decided to buy a used correct (screw not ball) TA from Oklahoma Foreign. They sent out a nice one quickly for about $150 plus shipping. I'm replacing the wheel bearings, drop links, and bushings while I'm at it.

This is a more complicated and expensive solution than buying the Tarett drop links, but I wanted to go stock as much as possible.