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SCWDP- Shock and Awe Dept
 
surflvr911sc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
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SC right rear shock mount???

Anyone have a trick for getting to the right rear shock mount on a SC? I just can't get the sob b/c of the airbox, fuel distributor and lines running back there. I'll try anything! tia

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Ryan Williams, SCWDP
'81 911SC Targa 3.6
'81 911SC Coupe 3.2 #811
'64 VW Camper Bus, lil' Blue
Old 10-13-2002, 01:30 PM
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I have been planning this for a while and will remove the rubber air box that sits behind the air cleaner box. Even with that it still appears to be a mother! Hopefully someone has a better idea?
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Vance
'83 SC Cabriolet - The "Matrix"
'73 914 - "Spicy Mustard" - SOLD
Old 10-13-2002, 06:29 PM
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Porsche Crest It helps to have long arms.

First, after you have your car on stands, I recommend using your floor jack to lift up the wheel assembly as far as possible, but not so much that it starts to lift the car off the stands. This will relieve the stress on the shock nut due to weight. It also allows you to slowly lower the entire assembly once the bolt is loose.

Next, I loosened my A/C compressor so I could pull it straight back and set it on the rear deck. This shifts the A/C hoses out of the way. A couple hoses are right in the access path. Rather than go over the air box, stick your arm along the side by the oil filter to turn the nut. A hex key should fit in the top to hold the shaft. I placed a thin solid piece of plastic back up against the rubber firewall to prevent the hex key from digging in as I turned the nut. You can only get small 1/4 turns at a time but you can do it if you take your time and take a few breaks to let your arms rest. I found it almost impossible to get both arms back there, but the hex key should stay put once you place something behind it.

You can try it first with the compressor in place so you can see what you will need to move to get a wrench back there.

Oh, one other thing, before you loosen the top nut, loosen the nut holding the bottom of the shock in place while everything is still tight. Then just screw it back in while you work on the top part.

Last edited by autobonrun; 10-13-2002 at 07:12 PM..
Old 10-13-2002, 07:09 PM
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Having double joints help.

Drop the motor a few inches also
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Dean
911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno,
Old 10-13-2002, 07:26 PM
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Autobon - Thanks for the detail. That is helpful?

Blown - What is the process for dropping the engine a few inches? I've tried but must be doing something wrong?
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Vance
'83 SC Cabriolet - The "Matrix"
'73 914 - "Spicy Mustard" - SOLD
Old 10-14-2002, 08:10 AM
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Put a jack under the motor in the rear. Loosen and remove the two bolts for the rear motor mount. Lower the jack a little.
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Dean
911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno,
Old 10-14-2002, 05:43 PM
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SCWDP- Shock and Awe Dept
 
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Got it! It took a lot of patients and a few hand cramps but it worked. I got lucky and could tighten up the new shock all the way until the final torque by using a ratchet w/ 18" extension and a universal going behind the airbox from the left side.

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Ryan Williams, SCWDP
'81 911SC Targa 3.6
'81 911SC Coupe 3.2 #811
'64 VW Camper Bus, lil' Blue
Old 10-14-2002, 07:15 PM
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