hEY fELLAS, iF YOU WERE TO BURN A VALVE.. WHAT WOULD SOME SYMTOMS BE.. LOTS OF SMOKE ON START UP OR SMOKE ALL THE TIME?? JUST WONDERING... THANKS FOR THE INPUT.
ERICSmileWavy

I haven't used synthetic oil in my car, as I've always had some leaks. I think I have them all fixed now and don't want to start any more with synth. I use Castrol 20/250.

I don't know...might be sludge in the engine. I seem to recall reading a wonderful procedure for curing that problem. Maybe a case of transmission fluid is in your future :)

Richard, if this really bugs you (& I know it does) why not install some new stem seals? You can test all your valve springs while they are out, & maybe find some hidden HP? Combine it w/your exhaust upgrade & all I’ll see next month is your taillights!

Richard,
Dont' Jump!!

My 3.2 consumed 1qt/300 miles right through the entire DE season last year, where it was driven hard and often. Quite a few 3.2's run hard on the track with fairly high oil consumption but no other problems. Catastrophic failures seems to be rare, other than the dread missed shift.

As you know, my oil consumption turned out to be due to heavily coked-up rings. I know this issue has been bugging you for a while, and you'd like to get it resolved. Remember that you have time to work out the best option for you, and with the winter approaching, the opportunity to get it done without losing much driving time. JW's advice is right on the money, as usual.

"For about the same amount I'd spend on a top end (plus handing my engine off as a core), I can get a fully rebuilt and upgraded 3.2 and have the swap done in a day. "

That is a fairy-tale story. Remember, there are no free lunches with 911 engines, and you *will* indeed get what you pay for.

For all of you out there contemplating a 3.2 swap or replacement, take a quick look at what's going on now. All of the 3.0L or 3.2L engines are worn out by now. The used ones that are for sale are out of the car for a reason. Even if you find one that you like, you will have to rebuild it semi-soon. The 3.2s are proving to be a bit less reliable in their old age than the 3.0s.

It's very likely that you will buy a used engine for $4-$6K, only to have to rebuild it for another $8000 in a year or two. Most people are assuming that the used engines they are buying are bullet-proof and will last. Not necessarily true, and a very risky assumption.

-Wayne

Wayne, I was completely in agreement w/ your first paragraph, (no free lunch w/ 911 engines), then I got to, "All of the 3.0L or 3.2L engines are worn out by now". (??) BULL....loney!! I'd venture to say that a large percentage of them are still in the *under 150k miles* range, and nowhere near "worn out". Need a top-end freshening, maybe, but that is not worn out.

You know as well as anyone the strength of the bottom-ends and P/Cs on these motors, I just finished tearing-down my SC motor today, (will be at Pelican tommorow for engine yoke and other parts), it has 120k on it and insides look factory fresh, w/ exception of head studs and one broken valve spring.

I do agree w/ the rest of what you said, however. :) And Richard, with 86k miles you are not going to get a "your P/Cs are shot" call, probably not with 186k. Unless your wrench is behind on a couple of boat/snowmobile payments. ;) I'd keep the motor you have which you know has always had clean oil, deal w/ maintenence as it comes up. My .02. :cool:

And with that, 1 qt. every 600 mi. seems quite reasonable to me. Wonder how much it would use if I drove it?:D

How difficult is it to replace the valve stem seals. Will this be in Wayne's new book? Is it outlined somewhere else that I can check in the mean time?
TIA

just replacing the seals is a bandaid repair, because the guides and valve stems are worn. the valve stem has radial play in the guide and the seal plugs onto the end of the guide. it may help for a while, but will probably break, or come off soon. anyway, the engine would have to come out, and the cat removed for access. a special valve spring compressor is used to remove the springs, after the rocker is out of the way. exhaust and intake use different tools. grab the seal with a seal grabber tool, and wiggle and twist it off. push on the new one with a 13mm deep socket (cleaned) and extension. use the white teflon seals. you won't have much luck installing the brown vitons. do each cylinder on it's firing position so the piston is up, to prevent a valve from sliding down the guide and into the cylinder. adjust valves when done.

Any advantage to the Teflon vs Viton seals JW?

Speeder,

It should have read "most of the 3.0/3.2 engines are worn out by now."

Most Carreras with more than 60,000 miles on them have had to have their valve guides replaced.

If you have Alusil cylinders on your engine, then they are non-reusable, and worn out.

With engines over 100,000 you are risking running into one or more of the following: broken head studs, weakened rod bolts, worn valve guides.

Most 3.0L engines I've seen at 125,000 miles are worn out. They still run, but they smoke, and need rebuilding soon.

"Need a top-end freshening, maybe, but that is not worn out."

Ha, that's hog-wash! As anyone who has torn down engines knows, it's about 85% of a full rebuild to refresh the top end. There is really no point in doing just a top-end rebuild on an engine. There isn't too much to the bottom end, so it makes sense to tear it down. If an engine needs a top-end rebuild, then I consider it worn out. Besides, on a 3.2, you should definitely replace the rod bolts if you have the engine apart.

-Wayne