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How bad is it?
Just cleaning up my engine bay and getting familiar with things in prep of taking the car to a local expert for some re-sealing of the engine. I had pulled out the blower in prep for my ssi's and heat backdate. In removing the fan I did lift the bracket supporting the line seen below. I just noted the crack in the rubber on the left. No apparent leak but I was hoping to at least drive the car on a trailer.
Does this look safe for a 5 min run. 45? How high pressure are we talking here? I will watch it for leaks. Any thoughts on a temp fix? Also, I am still learning the anatomy of my car, but is this an oil or fuel line? Also, what is up with the two versions of this line I see in photos. Is it a pre and post g50 variation? Give me a name and I promise I will search on it. http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psxrjgqkhb.jpg Note the missing third contact. I removed all four of these terminals as the harness was originally traveling next to the throttle leaver (asking for trouble). I ran it below the intake unit as I presume is correct (and safe). Before putting them back in I noted the missing female contact. There are three male contacts so I am assuming one came out or was never there. What is this for? Thoughts on how it might effect the car? Again, give me a name and I will search. http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psndlwtubp.jpg Thanks for any help. As you can guess I am new at this, but quite keen to learn. |
The top pic. I just use 2different size hose with sealant one inside the other and for a dollar you saved over $100.
The other, I would look for female piece. It's possible the wire isn't there either. If it is, the replacement connector can be sectioned in but from another harness. I usually see this defect on the flywheel female connectors. Bruce |
In your top picture. If you do a search on "fuel line repair" you should find the guy that can make new hose ends on your copper tube. I had him do mine, just like new. Reasonable too.
I just don't have his name handy. This line is a vacuum line. |
The top pic of the vacuum line can be fixed by cutting the ferrule and using vacuum rated line. I used one diameter for the inside, and another for the outside - them used little band clamps. The part is called a pipeline and is ridiculously expensive.
this is known to crack like all of the other lines, and it actually looks like someone tried to repair before using some material. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1417908481.jpg |
The bottom picture is the throttle switch (3 pin) and idle position (2 pin) switch (a micro-switch) harnesses. The idle sw is closed when in idle. The throttle sw is closed in wide open throttle (WOT).
The Throttle switch only used two pins of the 3. Get yourself a Bentley workshop manual - it shows all of this. If you get the PET parts pdf from PAG - it is free, and it's a big help showing exploded view dwgs and all of the part nos. While you are investigating/cleaning, make sure the idle sw sends a closed/short (ohmmeter) when in idle and that the signal opens when the throttle comes off of idle - you may even hear the click. I never checked my WOT sw, but it's probably closed when in WOT. In my pic above, of the rear of the intake, you can see the black micro switch with the red dot (button) that gets mashed down in idle. |
Quote:
Edit: Len is his name |
Thanks everyone. This is great info and now that i know this is a vacuum line i will dig through my bentley. I got a 1 inch internal diameter hose that i will jacket, seal, and double clamp until i get a new one.
Thanks for the great wiring info. Will test that out. Love learning about this stuff. Certinally more to it than my tii. |
[QUOTE=gliding_serpent;8384754] I just noted the crack in the rubber on the left.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psxrjgqkhb.jpg Greetings, I may have one of those in my stash if you are interested. regards, Al |
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