Oil Tank Screen

[Ferrino]

I recently removed my 1976 oil tank so that it can be cleaned at Pacific Oil Coolers. Upon removal, I noticed something rattling around inside and assumed it was the oil level float. However, when I removed the oil level sender, I could see that there's a long strip of screen/mesh flopping around, disconnected from the tank structure (see pic below, taken from the oil level sender hole). I'm assuming that the only way to fix this is to have the tank opened up and the screen tack-welded back in position?

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[Uwon]

See
Oil Tank question
Post #21 for a dissection of the tank.
The screen is tacked to a couple of spots on one side only and it kinda wiggles arround. Oil coming in can avoid going through the screen around the edges so it's by all means not foolproof. The screen is relatively corse so if engine debree is caught there, you are probably toast already. With oil in the tank, it will not likely rattle. Maybe Pacific will be able to do something. Hope this helps.
Johan

[Quicksilver]

The screen isn't there to catch debris. It is for control of aeration and slosh.

[Ferrino]

Thanks for the replies. I decided to buy another tank, this time from a 1984 Carrera. I figured the tank would need to be opened up in order to reattach the screen and it would be more economical to get a replacement than pay for repairs. Another side-effect of the loose screen is that it can interfere with the correct operation of the float for the oil level sender, effectively blocking its motion.

[Ferrino]

Despite moving to a Carrera oil tank since this discovery, I would still like to save the old oil tank with the loose screen/mesh as a spare. I now have a MIG welder and was wondering if anyone else has re-tacked the screen in place? I guess you would need to cut the tank open to get it in the correct position and tack it? Alternatively, do you think it would be safer to just excise the screen/mesh completely and do away with it? Thanks.

[Uwon]

The screen is tack welded to only one side of the clam so it can be done. The trickier part will be welding it back together without buckling which does require some experience it tacking strategically prior to final beading. Then you have to deal with the welding crap left inside and refinishing so it looks half decent.
Johan