There was a time period when many SC starters failed to spin due to an armature-to-field coil clearance issue. When heated sufficiently by the exhaust system, the armature would stick. One short-term solution was to hit it with a mallet to dislodge it. Another was to spray water on the housing.

Buying a new factory starter is, IMHO, a waste of $$. Basic starter technology hasn't changed much in 70 years. Get a rebuilt starter from a reputable rebuilder or opt for a so-called hi-torque starter (BTW, it really isn't. It just uses a smaller, higher revving motor and a gear train so the drive pinion gear generates equivalent starting torque and speed. The reduced weight is a plus.

Generic:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1419529368.jpg

Some torque-reduction starters (Hitachi, Denso, etc.) adapted for our engines don't/didn't accurately mesh the drive pinion gear with the flywheel ring gear (drive gear engagement depth). After removing the factory starter, bench-test the new starter (of any type) to compare/confirm the distance from mounting surface to ring gear is the same. If off by X, the ring gear can be damaged.

Sherwood

Thanks 911Pcars,
I've been around town and on the freeway with no probs......will wait till it happens then take it apart and decide, maybe just brushes and a solenoid.

How reliable are these Bosch rebuilt, or should I just put in a new one.

George,

I suggest you read the archives, there are many posts on intermittent starter problems. My experience is that now that the cores are +20 years old, the BOSCH rebuilt starters are not very reliable and many of them fail after a year or two. I have stopped using them and switched to the high torque gear reduction starter. There is a good explanation of a common fault that is untouched by the rebuild process. You should test the wiring and switches before condeming the starter. I also recommend fitting a remote starter button in the engine compartment, it is easy and inexpensive. When the electrical portion of the switch eventually fails, you can calmly walk around the car and fire it right up.

Rebuilding a motor could mean anything between replacing ALL worn parts inside the motor housing - e.g. rewind the field, armature and solenoid coils, replacing bearings, gears and commutator. Other "rebuilds" could include just cleaning up the contact surfaces on the commutator, adding new brushes and a new paint job or less. I'm pretty sure most rebuilders proceed on an "as needed" basis.

One would assume rebuilders power up the unit to test initial operation.

It started at the ignition key, loop around there and goes through the middle console, if I remember right, then somewhere through the rear firewall to the engine fuse area on the left. It ended up at into the big socket there. Then it comes out and goes toward the engine and goes down to the starter. What I did for test was to add another wire from the ignition key to the big socket at the engine bay. When the problem occur, I plug it in to test.