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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 85
Post Suspension Work

I just received my new torsion bars and sway-away spring plate. The torsion bars are 23mm front and 31mm rear (tubular). This is the first time I've done any suspension work on my car, and I was wondering if anyone has any special tips they want to pass on to me, to help save me time & frustration. Next week I will probably order new sway bars (TRG) and Bilsteins.

[This message has been edited by mjc76 (edited 09-21-2001).]

Old 09-21-2001, 06:02 PM
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Clark Griswald's Avatar
 
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Yes, check this

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_suspension_bushings/911_suspension_bushings.htm

And do get those shocks. Big tbars without shocks will leave you totally out of balance.
Old 09-21-2001, 09:51 PM
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May I suggest a helmet to wear when you hit a bump. Your torsion bar setup is definetly geared toward track only use. Joking aside, what made you pick these sizes? Are you planing to turn this into a track car?


------------------
8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

[This message has been edited by 89911 (edited 09-22-2001).]
Old 09-21-2001, 09:56 PM
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Location: Denver, CO, USA
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Those are some serious torsion bars. I thought my 72 was unbearable with 22 & 28 mm torsion bars. I do have 23 & 30 mm in the race car.

As for advice make sure you get those bushings lubed well and make sure they are the right size. Once lubed up, you should be able to move the spring plate by hand. If not or if you find you really need to pound the bushings in you should sand or file them down a little. I put mine on the end of my drill and used some course sandpaper on the outside. Don't get them real loose, just so they fit snugly.

The hard part is getting the old bars out if hey have been in there a while. If they are stuck you can pound them through the other side. ie. get a pipe and stick it through the torsion tube hole and wacxk it with a hammer. The one tube will push the other out enough to let you pull it out from the other side. You may get lucky and be able to pry the spring plates out with torsion bar attached.

I would also recomend trying to get it on some scales once you get it close. It is easier and more accurate. Our PCA region has some club owned scales that the member can use. If your region sponsors club racing they may also.

Feel fry to call if you have any "in process" questions.

Dave
DART Auto
303 296 1188
Old 09-22-2001, 05:33 AM
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Guys, Tubular tbars have a lower spring rate for a given diameter. Typically you can subtract about 1mm to figure the equivalent solid tbar rate.

In this case these tubulars would be similar to 22/30 mm solid bars.

Those are still manly spring rates, but not totally out of control. I would have gone with lighter rears but some people like the stiffer rear bars.

With bars that stiff, you really must have heavier shocks.
Old 09-22-2001, 09:07 AM
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Yes I am planning on making this a 90% track car. I think it is a good compromise handling for ride quality.

Old 09-22-2001, 01:59 PM
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