How much oil should I use?

[springer]

I am putting my engine back in after rebuilding it and am not positive how much oil is to be added. Also does anybody have any special tips on break in period or anything else that may be help would be appreciated.

[Superman]

About 10 quarts, or perhaps a little more. Ten will get you started, so to speak.

[MarkY]

Originally posted by springer
I am putting my engine back in after rebuilding it and am not positive how much oil is to be added. Also does anybody have any special tips on break in period or anything else that may be help would be appreciated.

You have the "smarts" to rebuild an engine, but need to ask how much oil to put in? Scary.

[Jay Auskin]

often times, a "dry" engine takes a different initial fill volume than an oil change. This of course is due to oil than sits in the engine, and doesn't get drained out at a change interval. This can be as much as 2 quarts or more for some engines.

[springer]

Hey MarkY,

I have the smarts to ask the question and make sure I get it right. I just spent a lot of money and time doing this and I'm not dumb enough to assume that a dry engine would take the same amount of oil as an engine that was getting an oil change. If you don't have something constructive to say why don't you keep it to yourself.

[JEB]

Make sure you mix in a couple of quarts of transmision fluid - just in case there is any sludge in that rebuilt engine. HA-HA

Jeb
79 930

[masraum]

Exactly, don't want any sludge in the engine. I also hear that running the engine like it's in the 24hrs du Le Mans while the tranny fluid is in really works the stubborn sludge loose. Just jack the back end up, put it in 5th and put a brick on the accelerator pedal for a few hours.
Ha Ha Ha,

What a Maroon!

He should have put Armour All ALL over his tires too

[Kemo]

springer,
I usually put in 12 Quarts and then start warming up the car, it takes approx 13 altogether. This is for a routine oil change. Like Jay said...it might take a little more oil since the engine is "dry". I think MarkY was just jokin around. Since you only have 7 posts, im assuming you are either new to the board or a "lurker". In any event, welcome to the board.

[Dan Owens]

Bob,

Put in about 10 quarts to start with. Once you get it running and warmed up completely check the oil level in the reservoir while it's running and go from there. Don't let it sit and idle too long. While your first running it to get it warmed up all the way, run it at about 2000 RPM's. As long as you're somewhere in the middle of the marks on your dipstick your fine. Some people say to run non-detergent oil the first 500 miles and then drain and replace it and the filter. Either way replace both at about 500 miles. Cut the filter open and see what came out of the engine. Some also advise not to run synthetic oil until after the breakin at about 1000 to 1500. Change the oil again at about 1000 to 1500 miles and check the valves for adjustment, unless you hear noise before then. As for running the engine itself you'll get all kinds of opinions there too. Start and run the engine until it warms up completely, looking for oil leaks in the lines and valve covers etc. Make your adjustments to the idle etc and then shut it down and let it cool off. Then it's anybody's guess. Some say drive it normal some say don't exceed 4500RPM until you hit 500 or 1000 miles. I say don't be stupid, do what seems logical and you should be fine. Vary your RPM's and driving speed during the first 500 to 1000 miles, don't lug the engine. Listen for stuff coming loose and for oil leaks etc. You can also check the archives and find plenty of breakin opinions there too.

Dan O

'84 Targa 3.2 (rebuilt in the spring)

[Superman]

13 quarts is more than the capacity of the entire oil system when completely empty, so I wonder how you get that much in there, Kemo. Or at least that's my understanding. I still think 10 or 11 quarts is a good number to start with.

After doing WAY too much research/asking around, I decided to use non-detergent oil for break-in. That's what aviation mechanics are required to use. You don't need detergent oil in a new, clean engine and the non-detergent kind will encourage the rings to seat.

Use common sense during break-in, of course, but do not baby the engine. If the P&Cs are new, then a slight load during breakin is okay. I think the factory puts a 50-hp load on the engines during dyno break-in, or something in that area. If new rings are being asked to cooperate with old P&Cs, then feed them more horses. Drive it like you stole it, basically. Again, within reason. Bruce Anderson knew my situation (reusing old P&Cs with new rings) and strongly urged me to put pressure to those rings right away. I did that, and the rings seated very nicely. The important thing is to not just let it idle. Drive it.

The automatice transmissio fluid thing is a joke. Really, and actual joke. they're not serious.

[htbetz]

After rebuilding my 2.7L I put in 10 quarts as my porsche gurus' told me. After warmup there was no reading on the dip stick so I kept adding till I got to 13 quarts when the reading was between the lines. I was told anywhere from 10-12 quarts, but wound up with 13.... Who knows?

[Kemo]

Superman,

I cant tell you why it takes 13 quarts, maybe its the Brass Oil cooler instead of the trombone...

That gets it right in the middle of Min and Max. I think 10 to start with is plenty. No sense overfilling a brand new engine, you know its clean.

[Early_S_Man]

The spec book says 13 liters is the total system capacity for all '72 and later oil tanks (and equipped with external coolr) ... 11 liters for the low mark, and 13 liters for the high mark on the dipstick. That is for a completely dry external front cooler AND engine. So, unless you drained the external lines and cooler, you would use the refill qty of 10 liters.

[sbarrett]

From personal experience, start with 10 and check. After pouring in 13 quarts and firing up the engine, I proceeded to pump oil into the intake, which was followed by great billows of blue smoke and a well-oiled engine exterior!

[Zeke]

Back to the break-in procedure. Most of what I've read says up to three quarter throttle on acceleration w/o over revving it. If these guys say 4500 rpm, sounds good to me. Definately vary the load for the first few miles and avoid constant speed out on the highway until at least 500 miles. You'll hear a lot of theory on when to change the oil. But if the rings are not plated and the cyls are not nikasil (like Bob's) you are going to see a lot of metalic in the oil in the waste pan. How long do you think the rest of the motor wants to see that stuff? I would be easily talked into changing the oil at 100 miles.

[Calspeed]

I find this subject quite interesting. I am a new Porsche owner and I was shocked at the amount of oil it requires. But what concerns me more is the proper procedure in adding oil.

From what I understand and this is more than likely not 100 percent correct. After draining the oil and changing the filter the proper way to refill is as such... or sort of as such.

Add about 6 quarts to the tank and then let the motor idle. As it is idleing you keep adding oil until it reads between the indicator lines.

I was told that this was the proper way to do so because of the way the oil flows into the motor. I totally dont understand this procedure but I am sure that some of you folks do. Can you shed alittle light on this?

Calspeed

[Jim Sims]

After I change my oil (76 911s 2.7l) I just add 10 quarts of oil, start engine, look for leaks and let the engine warm up. I usually have to add about another quart and a half to get the oil level mid-way between the dipstick marks. When I dropped my engine (did not disassemble beyond removing valve covers to do valve adjustment), removed and cleaned engine mounted oil cooler and replaced the engine mounted thermostat o-ring and then added a stock external oil cooler system (trombone front turn around loop) the car required 15.5 quarts of oil to fill the system. I put in 11 quarts initially and added additional oil gradually (monitoring the dip stick) as the external oil thermostat opened and began to fill the external oil cooler lines. Jim

[island911]

Originally posted by Early_S_Man
The spec book says 13 liters .. . .

That's 13.74 quarts, for the metrically challenged.

[Tyson Schmidt]

Calspeed, you don't need to have the engine running while adding the extra oil. The idea is to add 6 quarts, then start the engine and let it run for a few seconds then shut it off, to make room in the tank for adding the other 4.

Then start it and let it run until the oil temperature gauge reads at least to the first hash mark. (170-180 degrees) With the engine still running, the level should be halfway between the low and high marks on the dipstick, which should read about 9 o-clock on the oil level gauge. (horizontal)

[smarjoram]

The haynes manual says that all early cars up to the 2.7 take 9 litres and the 2.7 13.5 litres (nice multiples of 4.5, which is how much you get in a can here in the UK).

Unfortunaltely it stops there, and I want to know what my SC will take. Some others on this board said 9litres for an oil change.

I'm not surprised that even someone who rebuilt his engine had to ask - it seems like none of us really have a simple answer.