Dave, the interior itself comes apart pretty easily as stated above. If you need a hand give me a shout, I'd be happy to help another member pull apart his 911 and maybe put most of it back together. :D

I feel a poll coming on:

Post a pic of the wife and the car. We'll decide which to keep

But for what a divorce will cost you could probably upgrade to a new 996

I also have a pair of the Bose noise cancelling headphones that I wear flying overseas - and they are incredible. They definitely reduce fatique, and when you listen to movies/music, are spectacular.

Bose noise cancel in the whole car?
 

Hmmmm... I wonder if you ran it through an amplifier?! Would it work for the whole car? Intrigueing!

I found some sound deadening materials in the footwell of my old Mk2 VW Golf.

These are rectangular, about 200mm x 450mm long x 3-4mm thick, and look like a grid of small squares filled with sand or something similar - and so are pretty heavy/dense - so I presume they'd be good for sound/vibration reduction.

There are two in each footwell of the Golf ( but if the car has been standing in a dismantlers yard for a while the footwells are bound to be full of water! - so pain to get these pads out.

What is Dynamat made of?

Carpet fitters near me sold me some heavy duty carpet underlay which is about 5-6mm thinck dense rubber - and is very, very cheap.SmileWavy

Have you thought about a new wife?

can't give you hard info.. but Dynamat cuts the higher frequencys. I tried to describe it in a previous reply here to this.. it is expensive.. a same type stuff is called Brown Bread, and is much cheaper.. the carpet stuff may help a little.. our co-member "bell" knows more about this than me.. maybe PM him a message.. and a "Steve W" from Calif is very knowledgeable also.. I know there is another audio pro around here, but can't remember who without a search of audio topics..............Ron

hey i'm here :)
it's not so much the dynamat itself, it's the physics behind it.
what happens is when you apply dynamat you are actually changing the resonant frequency of the metal it's attatched to, creating a more dense panel which will vibrate at a much lower frequency eliminating the tinny rattles. it must be applied thouroughly though, you need to clean the surface smooth and make sure it sticks and conforms to the panel everywhere it touches it. if it does not it will not change the resonating frequncy as effectivly.
i've used dynamat original and some other off-brands that were half the money with the same results, how good it's going to work all comes down to the installation.

I've wondered about this for a while and whether it's worth spending the $$$ for acoustic negation/suppression. I went the cheapo route ($40/big roll of tar from Harbor freight and BTW I have way too much extra in case anyone needs some) but haven't tested the results. The theory was on the panel tap and listen for the echo. Damn the weight, full speed ahead.

Don't they have a reverse waveform generator to help people sleep for less money? (not that it would actually work in the complex folds of sheetmetal)

If the majority of the "road noise" is coming from the fenders(most friction, ears forward) could be isolated from resonating and the rest could be ignored without too much effort, there are probably bushing creaks, panel flex/rubbing, and drivetrain harmonics that are showing up in the passenger compartment far from the original source.

Someone posted about a spray-on dampner and also about using the thin foam underflooring that goes under Pergo. Doubled up might make selective results without space/weight loss. A professional type under-carpet padding does wonders for the preceived creaks which signify an aluminum-can-crush framework.

Someone who works in a music studio that has access to digital waveform meters could measure different acoustics under driving conditions and give hard data to what works best.