|  | 
| 
 @MarkWard - I’m still trying to find the sweet spot to make the adjustment to get my BL to stay off when handle is down.  maybe it’s time for me to swap out the parts. Here’s the part you seek: https://*********************.com/contact-bow-911-912-65-89-p55552.html | 
| 
 Your link doesn’t seem to work, but I did find the “Bow” contact from another supplier. Pelican lists the rivets, but I’m thinking pop rivets might work.  It’s a poor design to me. Seems a bayonet switch retained by a screw like VW and Audi used in that era would be better. Mine has the “auto” heat setup which complicates access even more. Could find no details or videos on how to replace the bow. Maybe I’ll document it. Thank you. | 
| 
 Must be link policy here, try Sierra Madre, they have bow replacement.  Pop rivets (Arrow)  I’ve used will leave a big lump of material on the backside, always needs to be filed down.  The oem copper variety need special tool, but I’ve managed to hammer them flat on a vise. I’ve never taken the handle apart, so not sure how to manipulate the switch/bow to add rivets, all likelihood is complete dismount and disassembly. | 
| 
 Parking Brake light Illuminates while driving I own a '69 912 and my hand brake works just fine except that after a brisk 30 minute drive, it lights up?  Once the car cools down overnight the dash light stays off on short drives. How do I go about determining the cause? Or, should I just replace the switch?(it's been behaving like this for months :( . | 
| 
 Assuming the brake fluid is at proper level and the handbrake is adjusted properly (2-3 clicks up will turn light on) then the master cylinder switch could be faulty, could try cleaning any and all the grounds too. | 
| 
 Yes.  The brake light is triggered by either the parking brake or the master cylinder switch.  It sounds more like the master cylinder might be triggering it. | 
| 
 Simple test.  When the light comes on, disconnect the wire from the switch on the master cylinder. If it goes off, it is the master cylinder. If it stays on, it is the switch at the hand brake. BTDT | 
| 
 Thanks to all who provided advice. I will proceed accordingly and reply back.. | 
| 
 Thanks to everyone for this helpful info, esp @speedking with the pics!  I was able to adjust the screw (without removing passenger seat or carpet) so the E brake light on the dash works appropriately.  Before it would flicker when the E brake handle was down.  Here’s what I did: Remove the 4 hex bolts holding the black plastic housing in place (needed a long 4mm hex wrench and had to adjust seats to allow handle to spin). Pry off the rubber boot from the front of the housing (you can leave it in place) and pull the housing up and back to expose the base of the E brake handle. There is a gap at the base of the front of the housing and you need to pull one heater lever up to allow this gap to clear the E brake handle and lower heater handle, and then as it comes up it can clear the raised heater lever. It won’t clear both heater levers and the E brake handle at the same time. There are also wires connecting to the fan switch underneath so you can only pull the housing up and back so much. But it was just enough. The adjustment screw is on the right side at the base of the E brake handle. I used a very small ratchet wrench with a flathead bit to loosen the screw. If you had to use a standard screw driver, you’d have to take out the passenger seat for access. Once the screw was loosened, I pulled the E brake up 3 clicks (tried 2 clicks first as mentioned above but then the light came on within a few mm of raising the E brake handle). I then used a chainring nut wrench (for bicycles), or you could use anything that will reach and has a 90deg bend at the end. I pulled & slid the adjustment screw up toward the ceiling as far as it would go and then tightened it again. Bingo! You have to test it with engine running. The E brake light on the dash should come on after one or two clicks, but go off and stay off with the E brake handle all the way down. Fixed it! Took an hour researching it, an hour futzing around with the housing etc to figure out how to gain exposure and which tools to use, and then maybe 30 minutes to actually do the job. Update: DOH! Thought I had it fixed but it keeps flickering when I’m driving. Suspect it’s a loose/cracked wire or something making ground or whatever in there. Not worth taking the seat out and dismantling the whole thing just for this. Gonna just take the bulb out. Spent a bit of time trying to get the red plastic cover off. There’s a black rim around the red plastic cover. That’s the housing and you can’t remove it (at least not easily or without breaking it). Just pry off the red cover - it’s super easy. Update #2 (never good): it was impossible to get the little bulb out on my ‘87 targa. Suspect it is not intended to be removed. Tried gentle pliers, tried attaching a toothpick with crazy glue, it just would not come out! Finally - you guessed it - it broke and then I could really grab and pull and I think I pulled the socket out too. Looking at the bulb it seemed glued in place or something - definitely not easily replaced. Oh well - problem solved - for good! 🤣🤣 No more E brake light at all and thankfully the other lights there work fine. No person who would drive my car is the type of person who would leave the E brake up anyway… | 
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:50 PM. | 
	Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
	
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
	Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website