Confirm turbo vs. "regular" lower valve covers

[Cattler]

OK, I've searched and looked at about a million photos this morning, but only saw photos of turbo lower valve covers. In cleaning the lower engine I discovered a leak from the lower leading edge of the right lower valve cover. Its caused a small puddle to build on the heat exchanger.

I think these are turbo valve covers given the design and similarity to what others have posted. Can anyone confirm? (If so, its a rare stroke of PO good luck)

Would be good to have a side by side of turbo vs. "regular" covers--would appreciate someone posting a shot of a "regular" cover as well.

Here's what I have (note from the left side of the car):




This is from a thread I found with a photo of a turbo valve cover:


Thanks,
Dave

[Josh D]

Those are turbo. Became standard lower valve cover on '80 normally aspirated engines.

[Drisump]

Yes they are. The stock items in a regular car are basically without the strengthening webs that help retain rigidity. Normally these don't leak between valve adjustments, so if you are replacing the gasket you might consider doing a valve adjustment at the same time. I would also check for cracks once off. Cheers

[VFR750]

Observing the rust on the nuts; I would guess the cover has not been off in a long time. Time for a new gasket.

[Cattler]

Unfortunately, no. They supposedly were removed and a valve adjustment done about 15-20k miles ago.

Observing the rust on the nuts; I would guess the cover has not been off in a long time. Time for a new gasket.

[VFR750]

One of the things I noticed on my engine was a build up of gasket material on the mating surfaces. That and some corrosion made for uneven sealing surfaces. Both the cam housing and the cover itself.

The next time the cover comes off you might try to check the valve covers for flatness. I used a single edge razor blade to scrape the sealing surfaces, and found they stopped weaping. You just have to be careful not to gouge the surfaces with the razor blade.

But you may also have a problem with leaking rocker shafts, which can look like a leaking lower cover.

[kidrock]

if and when you decide to replace the valve cover gaskets, replace them with the black gaskets that have the silicone bead on them...they work best. Also, new Nylock nuts and aluminum crush washers are a *must*. Be sure not to overtighten, just a nice snug. IIRC, 8-9 foot pounds of torque.

[Cattler]

Originally Posted by kidrock

if and when you decide to replace the valve cover gaskets, replace them with the black gaskets that have the silicone bead on them...they work best. Also, new Nylock nuts and aluminum crush washers are a *must*. Be sure not to overtighten, just a nice snug. IIRC, 8-9 foot pounds of torque.

Thanks--just ordered new gaskets, washers, and nuts. Saw another thread saying that I can jack up the car (tilt in one direction at a time) and not drain all of the (recently changed) oil out when replacing the valve cover gaskets. True? Anyone done this?

Thanks,
Dave

[fanaudical]

I just recently adjusted valves on my 2.7 trying the "tilt method", but still found it necessary to drain the engine sump to avoid a huge mess on the floor.

[Cattler]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

I just recently adjusted valves on my 2.7 trying the "tilt method", but still found it necessary to drain the engine sump to avoid a huge mess on the floor.

Thanks--so that worked out to about 3-4 quarts to refill?

[HorstP]

did it with no tilt at all and lost about 3 quarts. I believe if you tilt it enough, you will loose less than a quart, if at all.

[Drisump]

Originally Posted by Cattler

Unfortunately, no. They supposedly were removed and a valve adjustment done about 15-20k miles ago.

15k miles is about the max between valve adjustments that I do. When was the last baseline oil change/ air filter/ distributor and rotor/ plugs and fuel filter tune up? If there is doubt or it's mostly over due, I'd consider base lining the entire maintenance program including a change of transaxle oil and a change of brake fluid. Cheers

[GregT2000]

Just did a valve adjust on my 3.2 with the car jacked up on one side at a time. Lost very little oil, probably half a cup.


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[safe]

You need to start the engine for a few seconds (15-20) before tilting, otherwise there might be a lot of oil in the crankcase (its the nature of the drysump system and might vary from engine to engine).

[Cattler]

Thanks all. I used the tilt method--warmed up the car (a few minutes), worked one side at a time after lifting and placing that side on a jack stand. I lost next to no oil from either side.

Best,
Dave