front wheel hub/(inner bearing) outer race question

[bwrichardson]

'83 SC Targa 142000 miles Since I was replacing the ball joints, tie rods/tie rod ends (Turbo),and struts, I thought replacing the front bearings was appropriate. When I got everything apart and tried to remove the inner bearing outer race from the R wheel hub with a pin punch, the race would not move. After cleaning the inner portion perfectly, I noted that the hub material was looking "scraped up" upon the inner edge of the race for about 80* (between 12 and 3 o'clock). When I then looked at the L hub at the inner side of the inner bearing outer race, I noticed a similar appearance. Do I replace the hubs, see if a machinist can press out the inner bearing outer races to see if there is any damage and replace the new bearings, or just clean and repack the present bearings that are 10 years old with some 40,000 miles on them though show no obvious wear. Thank you, Bruce

[zippy_gg]

To remove the race you need to heat the hub, then be very careful of the angle at which you are trying to punch out the race so you don't score the hub where the new race will go in. Work evenly between the 2 sides where the notches are so the old race comes out evenly.
Before installing the new race be sure that there aren't any burrs that would prevent the new race from going all the way in or your new setup won't be even.
Put the new races in the freezer overnight, heat up the hub and have a helper bring the "frozen" bearing race for you to install.

[azhodge]

thats right , heat that puppy on the grill and they will come right out. get one of those infrared remote temp readers from harbor freight. I think above 350 degrees is a bad thing. lots of threads on this.

[bwrichardson]

Thank you. So I do not have to worry about the "burr" that is already formed on the hub at the inner contact point of the outer race? There are no notches which would allow a pin punch to get a good contact area for pressure on the outer race.
B

[jason2guy]

its not ideal but if the race shoulder is in good shape you should be fine. instead of a punch find a socket that will grab the edge of the race and push it through. i use some 1/2in threaded rod with the proper spacers and washers and press it out that way. how are you going to install the new races? at the very least go to autozone or the like and borrow a race driver set. they are easily damaged if you are not careful. and definately heat the hub and freeze the race

[bwrichardson]

Thanks jayson2guy. If I don't need to replace the wheel hubs, I will have a machinist shop remove the old and reset my new races. My concern is the "burr" on the hub and if the new race will be axially centered in the hub. B

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by bwrichardson

Thanks jayson2guy. If I don't need to replace the wheel hubs, I will have a machinist shop remove the old and reset my new races. My concern is the "burr" on the hub and if the new race will be axially centered in the hub. B

Probably s good move on gong to machine shop; it is not easy to r/r the races on the hub, especially if your 83 does not have the 2 notches at 180 of each other like on my 86.
I created a little burr with my punch tool that I corrected with a small stone on a dremel tool and verified that there was no interference where the new race goes. It is important that the new race goes all the way down and straight in. I measured the depth on mine to be for sure for sure!

[douglas bray]

This is where having a BFH and large impact grade sockets come in handy. I have two sets of hubs and have pressed in new races on both sets with sockets, a round tip cold chissle, and a 4# hammer.....and ya, a propane torch and dry ice. Takes a couple of minutes.

Find a socket that is slightly smaller in diameter than the race, place it over the race and give it a good wack. Works everytime. Freeze the race and the socket. Heat the hub for several minutes.

Or go to Pep Boys and borrow the press from the parts counter. Simplest job on the suspension.