'87 Fuel Lines

[camperman-x]

Recently inherited an '87 carrerra 911. The interior of the car and fuel system were pulled apart as he was replacing the fuel return line and pressure line.

I am picking up where he left off and thought I would ask if anyone can point me to any write-ups describing how to feed the lines through the middle channel of the body. I put it through and realized it probably should be fed a specific way to avoid any potential interference I might run into later on as I put the rest of the car back together (especially the E-brake and shifter). In most cars there should be clips or guides along the way and using a mirror to look into the middle channel I see some possible options on how to feed the fuel lines through, but was hoping to find some info on how to do it exactly right!

For example I see on the parts diagrams
999-613-017-40 Protective Covering
999-511-093-02 Fuel Line Clip
911-356-202-03 Rubber Grommets for Fuel Line

but am trying to find information on exactly where and how those get installed.

Thanks for any help.

[mtb001]

Okay- so I am going to replace my main tunnel fuel lines tomorrow. Any suggestions?

[steely]

Welcome to the forum.
You'll get some help here.

The best way to route the lines is to fasten wire as a tail to the the old lines, pull them out which draws the wire through the tunnel, and then use the same wire to pull the new lines in.

Most of the documented methods on this forum use/describe this method.

If your fuel lines were already removed, this could be a bit of a challenge.

How hard is it to change the fuel lines?

[camperman-x]

Thanks I will take a look at those.

We were initially attempting to follow the method of tying one to the existing and pull through, however! he had already replaced them with stainless cables (incomplete however as he hadn't installed fittings on either end, and from the looks of the main channel we were questioning if he had done it properly, looking down the main channel his stainless lines were spiraled around the E-brake line a few times so we decided this probably wasn't right.

So we dialed it back and returned to a new set of OEM lines he had sitting around.

The positive is that the frame is essentially bare, no engine/trans/interior/fuel pump/etc.

[steely]

Originally Posted by camperman-x

"... he had already replaced them with stainless cables (incomplete however as he hadn't installed fittings on either end, and from the looks of the main channel we were questioning if he had done it properly, looking down the main channel his stainless lines were spiraled around the E-brake line a few times so we decided this probably wasn't right.

So we dialed it back and returned to a new set of OEM lines he had sitting around.

The positive is that the frame is essentially bare, no engine/trans/interior/fuel pump/etc.

Do you mean steel braided as opposed to stainless lines?
I agree that using the OEM replacement lines is a very safe path forward.
There is a tunnel within the tunnel that you have to get into.
If you can fish some stiff wire in there first it'll be helpful.

The hand-drawn figures in the link that mtb001 provided will be very helpful.
If the pedal cluster and steering rack are out too (along with engine and trans as you mention), that will make it a lot easier for you to concentrate on routing them into the tunnel than it would have been. But you can do it with the rack in.

Please come back with your status or any questions - this place is a terrific and helpful resource. Search here too, many folks over the years have documented their similar endeavors, and very few know it all (I certainly am a novice).

Good luck.
Dan

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by steely

Do you mean steel braided as opposed to stainless lines?
I agree that using the OEM replacement lines is a very safe path forward.
. . .

Using stainless braided lines when they aren't fully clamped down or isolated from contact with anything else is a really bad idea. Stainless braid will slowly saw it's way through panels that it is allowed to vibrate against. The OEM lines are a great idea but if you want to use stainless braided lines get the hose that has a rubber sheath outside of the stainless braid.

[camperman-x]

Yes, sorry I meant steel braided. I see the tunnel within a tunnel when looking down the length of the car where the shift linkage will be.

Thanks for pointing it out, missed what the hand drawn paper was showing the first spin through. That is exactly what I needed! =)

[camperman-x]

Any thoughts; am unsure what it is 'supposed' to look like. Based on the pictures in those other threads, I am hoping for some help to get clarity about 2 things. Because these are fuel lines I want to make sure I do it the right way to avoid any issues a few years down the road...

1. The front bracket is bent in a Z shape with both the throttle and brake line captured by the bracket. I am unclear however if that is correct and was the bracket supposed to be a Z? I was thinking maybe the two fuel lines should go behind and the bracket bent down around them but had seen a picture in the thread below with the throttle behind the bracket which seemed like that shouldn't touch the fuel lines since it moves. Part of my angst is I don't know if he had redone the throttle already and maybe routed it differently that stock as it regards the bracket.
Should I replace theses brake and fuel lines?




Second picture down in the front access panel where you can see the fuel lines ready to be routed somewhere!



2. The rear I don't see any bracket through the access hole; should there be one? Do I need one? The manuals/parts list has a rear bracket, but once I have the grommets in places and have it through the tunnel It seems like maybe I don't. This is a picture looking up towards the front.