Mechanic missed some stuff during top end?
 

Hey - If anyone has any experience around mechanics missing stuff during a top end....I'm hoping to get some feedback before calling the old mechanic back about a costly vacuum leak repair that's needed.


I had my top end rebuilt last summer because of some broken head studs. At the time the mechanic suggested splitting the case to use uprated racing studs. I did that, plus oil fed chain tensioners.

Ok. As soon as I got the car back I noticed 2 symptoms that bothered me...

1) A minor oil leak - I smelled oil burning off the exhaust occasionally..
2) Idle woes -- A cold start idle surging, and a high idle when warm.

I took the car back for a valve adjustment and while there told him about my concerns. He said the oil leak was from the front of the case where an aluminum tube is cast near the bell housing. He didn't offer to fix this because the engine would need to be dropped again...

As for the idle he said he checked it out the CIS and there's nothing wrong.



This last oil change I decided to try a new mechanic...someone recommended here on the boards who's closer to my house - a great guy. He said he found a vacuum leak around the #6 Intake Runner -- either a boot or the air box itself, but a motor out fix either way...$$$!

He also spotted the bell housing oil leak and expoxied it from the outside...which seems to have fixed it.

OK, so I guess my question is this:

Are these things that should have been fixed as part of my top end, and if so (given that I have a 1 year warranty) should I go back to the original mechanic, again - and give him a chance to make it right, again. Even though he missed these things in the 1st place...

Or, are these things that can show up after a top end, and therefor not really 'top end warranty" issues. I'd like to gather a few opinions before I call the old mechanic, or pul the trigger on a costly repair with this new guy.

Thanks
Tim

He split the case, he owns the oil leaks. That epoxy thing is a known fix.
Intake runner leak, if it requires new components like a boot or the air box, split it with him.

Oh, boy.

Is it necessary to split the case for head studs, case thru bolts or connecting rods on an 80 if the engine is on a stand?

I don't think it is.

If you have to do case savers drilling and stud removal, then yes.

Well, I would say you do have a vacuum leak. And I don't know if you have the skills to tackle this yourself, but I would say that sometimes what seems like the more expensive option is cheaper in the long run.

You can try going to your old mechanic, and see what he says, but I like the sound of the new guy.

What does your gut tell you ?

Case saver's maybe. Stud removal? I did not split my 81 case when I put Raceware head studs in back in the 90's.

Also pulled two connecting rod caps off (maybe just one - been a while) , plasti-gauged the journals and replaced the stretch bolts with case intact.

Also replaced all the seals on the through bolts one at a time.

80 does not usually need thread work. Bolts don't pull.

He found the leak. That says something.

CIS air leak repair can be done with a partial engine drop - however, a speedy, experienced mechanic may not even want to hassle with that.

Just had a complete rebuild done on mine and I also have the same surging Idle while cold and high Idle(1700) when warm. any thoughts on the fix?

If they are splitting the case, then I really don't think this would be called a, 'Top end'. At that point you might as well go, all-in.
It's up to you as to how you would like to proceed. If you go back and tell him 'said' shop said/did this and that, and it was a bit of time after you brought it to him, he will most likely say, 'get lost.'
If car is running ok, leave it, if car needs work, like engine needs to be semi dropped to fix runner, I would bring it back to org mechanic just to see if he owns up and fixes it. Can't really hurt especially if you have a 1 year warranty

That leak near the bellhousing is common because the L-shaped pipe that is cast into the 4-5-6 case halve is known to have thin metal surrounding it where the bend in the L-pipe occurs. The second mechanic did right by repairing from the outside and the first mechanic is incorrect that an engine drop is a must. The oil cooler can be removed with the engine in place, albeit a bit difficult. All it takes to fix the leak is some JB weld around the thin area. The leak is just a weepy leak since there's no pressurized oil involved.