Whats the secret to pressing in the new pedal cluster roll pin
 

Two different pedal rebuilds and Ive smoked 3 roll pins trying to press them in. The old ones press out with ease thanks to the 30 ton press and blaster penetrating oil but the new ones get 3/4 in and stop dead and eventually I end up chipping and bending the remaining 1/4 of the pin. The old one pressed back in fine and is very tight so Im using that for now but I would like to know the secret. Any ideas were I may be going wrong. Thanks....TargaEuro

I have a tool for this. It looks a bit like a punch but it is thicker and has a hole bored in the end that holds the pin and keeps it from expanding when you tap on it. Automotion used to sell them.

What about placing the pin in the freezer whilst you put the cluster in to the oven at maybe 50-60 oC?



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John Forcier
69 911T

Bring it to your porsche mechanic, he will do it in a minute for you.

What about using the old pin temporarily. I know they weaken over time. Should last me till I get some new pins in....TargaEuro

I actually thought of freezing the new pin, but I didnt want to take any chances of weaknening it while pressing it in. The press Im using has plenty off force but the pin must be getting hung up near the end of its travel. I dunno....TargaEuro

My "special tool" for installing roll pins is called a Plastic Hammer.

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'83 SC

The pins go in very tight, I dont know if a plastic hammer would hold up to well. Not in my case anyway. Im going to try to borrow the tool Chris has since he lives 15 minutes away from me. First I need some roll pins. It seems that one cannot find such a roll pin locally in New England anyway. Thanks everyone....TargaEuro

Put the pin in the freezer for a couple of hours. Heat the pedal arm and shaft with a propane torch 'till it's nice and toasty, then quickly and firmly tap the pin in.

Works like a champ. Try it on wheel hubs and bearings, piston pins, etc.

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Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee, '70 Ford Bronco www.geocities.com/the912guy

I'm tellin' ya. Plastic hammer. A heavy one, and use heat if it's tough. I don't have the benefit of a press.

Superman, you insist, I concur. Why plastic??

My memory may be foggy but I thought the pin was a roll pin. I don't know how much difference the cold/heat thing would make. I think you may be getting hung up on something. I grind a little bevel on the end of pins to help them "find their way" sometimes.

You run an undersize drill bit into the hole (aligning the two rack pieces) and remove the crap that is in there. Bevel the end of the pin. Take an oversize drill bit and countersink the hole on the side you will push the pin in from.

Use a vise (yeah it is a bit tough). Failing that, use a small punch. Go to Sears and buy a punch set if you don't alread have one.

Jw

you can replace them without removing the pedal cluster. i use an airhammer and a valve guide bit that is turned down on a lathe. punch the old one in a bit and start the new one behind it. the new one pushes the old one out as it's installed.

The stock (euro) roll pin is different than the hardware store replacement. I have used both. The replacement tool looks like a pin punch with a socket to accept the end of the pin.

I have found that these roll pins can work themselves loose. Whenever I have a pedal cluster out for maintenance or bushing replacement or have the drivers side floor board out, I run a piece of safety wire through the roll pin and secure it around the pedal shaft. It's cheap insureance.

Good luck,
David Duffield

Well, my experience has been that a hammer of some kind can get the pin past any small obstruction that might be in there. The plastic hammer is actually a metal hammer with a plastic cap on the nose, and a rubber one on the other side. If you try to use a steel hammer on car stuff, you will usually deform the thing you hit, and cost youself lots of time and money. A brass hammer would probably work, but they usually have fat noses.

The safety wire sounds smart, cleaning the bore with a drill bit sounds good too but be careful. I would not hesitate to use a hardware-store roll pin as long as it fit.

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'83 SC

a hardware store rollpin is a piece of crap really. you're asking for early failure. they shear in the center with the OEM type even, but at least it has multiple rolls in it's construction, compared to the cheap type that is basically C shaped.

I have the old pin in for now but I dont feel comfortable leaving it in. I should have some new ones in a few days. I dont use the c-shaped ones I prefer the type that are originally installed. I ordered 20 of them from Stoddard just in case I run into anymore trouble, I know I went overboard but there cheap enough and its good to have some in stock. I usually order from Pelican but I live in New England and I need them in a couple days and Stoddard is not to far from me so please forgive me. I also think Ill try beveling the edge of the pin before I press it in. Thanks for all the input everyone....TargaEuro