Pelican Parts Forums - no spark, won't start

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Try returniing the wiring to normal, i.e. battery hooked up, no jumper wires. Turn your key to "on", not "start", and depress the gas pedal a coulple of inches and hold it there for 15 seconds. Turn the key to "off", then try to start the engine.

Thanks Dan -- assuming you're thinking the car is flodded? At any rate, I'd try to start the car with cheddar cheese wedged under each arm if one of you guys told me it might help. ;-)

So, I tried your suggestion, but I've still got a guards red paper weight.

Any other thoughts?

Quote:

This may be really dumb of me to ask but have you considered taking the battery back to where you got it and having it checked? Sometimes it's possible to get a bad one.

that ain't so dumb. its the first thing i would have done.

tom,

the car was fine before you swapped batteries right? you could, have a duff. get it properly tested. worth eliminating it........

If the battery cranks the engine with plenty of power, and holding its charge, why would it be bad? Could it have a bad ground or something? I definitely try it, and appreciate everyone's suggestions!
Rgds,
TT

tom

just 'cause it cranks doesn't mean its ok. i've had bad batteries like that.

it may not be your problem - but worth a shot??

Agreed. I'll get it checked this weekend and let you all know.

Well what do you know, Stan called it!

I put my old battery in last night and the car fired right up!

And with the dust bunnys removed from the air exchanger and the new DME relay in place my butt dyno tells me that the car revs more freely and has a 1-3 HP gain! Sorry... couldn't resist :D

Thanks to Jeff I know exactly where my alarm is and have tested it every way to Sunday. Turns out it wasn't the problem.

Now, being extra observant I've noticed that the dash and headlights brighten slightly when reving above idle. With my DVM it doesn't really seem as though the volts are increasing with reving, but it is over 14 VDC at idle and when reving a bit.

Looks like a bad alternator/regulator might be the root of this whole thing, 'eh?

I'm hoping not, and that my old battery was just plain old and now fried internally, and that I was the one that overcharged it with the charger a couple of months ago (battery was removed from the car, and was dead from a short in my stereo).

On my 85, the regulator and alternator are one unit, true?

I still need to get the new battery replaced and try it. If I have a failing alternator/regulator, a good battery should still allow the car to start, but could be at risk of overcharging, right?

If a good working battery starts the car, but is north of 14 volts while running then I assume I do have to keep chasing the gremlins toward the alternator. Please advise, and thanks again for all the help.
Rgds,
TT

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85 Carrera Targa

Glad you got the car started. There is no sweeter sound after all the work you and everybody else put in. Have some fun now!

Way to go Tom. Glad you got you car started. It's a great feeling to track down and fix a problem. Now I think some high speed runs are in order, just to make sure it is running right;)