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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 561
Originally Posted by A horse with no name View Post
After reversing the connections within the R signal light, the problem was resolved.

Sometimes the most frustrating electrical problems are stem from some simple mistake.

What do you think about the diffusers? Looks like you've used them. One side of my car has one and the other not. It makes the biggest difference when the lights are off as you can't clearly see the LEDs like without the diffuser.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:26 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #761 (permalink)
Dial 911
A horse with no name's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC.
Posts: 1,060
Thumbs up

Yes Jerry, 'Happiness is' when solving, particularly electrical issues...As you noticed, I did use the diffusers that you supplied...They are even brighter without the diffusers but I personally prefer the look with them... I am though looking forward to wiring them so as to have them working in conjunction with the signal lights!

Again, thanks Jerry for your fine products, and especially your assitance in resolving the electrical issue that I was experiencing.

Take care

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”

Leonardo Da Vinci
Old 03-19-2018, 12:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #762 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 41
Got my rear brake / side markers installed and they are GREAT. Super easy to install and at least double or triple visibility. I did the front DRL a couple of months ago and now I am moving on to the side markers with the turn signal wiring. I can’t say enough about spoke (Jerry) and his products



Old 03-21-2018, 04:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #763 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 561
Still working on the 356 front lights. Recall that I destroyed the switching MOSFET and the PCB on the first attempt.

The switching converter board was redesigned to use a much larger MOSFET with a D2PAK package with much lower ON resistance (0.0056 vs 0.350 ohm). Also replaced the inductor with one with much lower series resistance. Resistance in these components means power loss and temperature rise. Also added a heat sink around the MOSFET.

Here's the new converter board mounted on the LED board. Initial tests with the assembly in the lamp enclosure showed very high temperatures with no airflow. A thermal probe on the MOSFET case showed temperatures above 120C and ambient temperature inside the fixture at almost 95C. At this point the entire circuit is burning a bit over 20W.

Concerned about the high internal temperatures, I reduced the LED current from 0.35A to 0.275A and power reduction to about 16W. Temps now max out at 113C for the MOSFET and about 80C inside ambient temperatures with no airflow. With low airflow of about 10MPH the temperatures dropped almost 15C.

The lamp has been run for about 40 hours already and seems to be operating ok.

One thing I'm trying is to try to thermally isolate the converter board from the LED heatsink. This is done with a blank circuit board mounted between the LED heatsink and the converter board. The blank circuit board can be seen in this picture already mounted on the LED heatsink. Not sure it helps but it was cheap to install it.

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Old 04-15-2018, 06:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #764 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 561
The first light is working well. About 50 hours running with voltages between 10-16Vdc. Worst case is 10V with current about 1.6Amp. MOSFET case runs as high as 113C at standstill and as low as 90C with airflow as car is moving.

Getting the 2nd LED board done. LED Lenses and holders are glued in. These lamps are bright and pretty well focused. The light pattern is below. The light pattern is wide and someone directional in the vertical direction. I think the lights will need to be pointed a bit downward on the car to not blind on-coming traffic.

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Old 04-16-2018, 02:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #765 (permalink)
‘84 911 3.2 Coupe
Arne2's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 3,155
Originally Posted by 69porsche View Post
So in order to ensure there's a significant contrast between brake and tail light, you removed the R3---How's that working for you? and how were you able to remove the R3 and did it take any other skills or modifications to the existing board?
I just happened to see this question, and I see that Spoke answered the how-to part.

I actually went one step farther and removed a second resistor from each board a few months ago, to increase the difference even more. Very pleased with it now. Tail lights still appear to be brighter than with incandescent bulbs, and there is a LOT of difference when I step on the brakes now. Totally happy.
- Arne
My car's blog-like thing:

"Honestly now, did you spend your youth dreaming of someday owning a Nissan or Mitsubishi?" - Porsche ad from early '90s
Old 04-16-2018, 06:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #766 (permalink)
Now Available for Ordering:   101 Projects For Your BMW 3 Series 1982-2000  [more info]

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