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retro fit central locking
since i had my door panels off to sort out the locks, i thought i should fit the "spal" central locking kit i have had lying around for a year or so!
i have looked at how to place the unit in the door and hitch up the mechanism and it occured to me to put the thing in the factory position - bottom rear corner. the slots are already in the door for mounting (nearly right spacing), and i was thinking that the oe rod and linkage might be usable - the hole is in place on the lock mechanism for the "ball" part. has anyone done this and thought of or actually used the oe kit?? is it viable?? also, i hate wiring cars :( , any thoughts on the best way to run the wires?? |
dick..I did a part factory install..there is info in a "search"..the factory type lock motor mounting is in a factory P book somewhere..I used a Viper aftermarket alarm to trigger the door locks with a beeper..and running the wires is tons of fun..and the factory rod from lock motor to lock may be plastic, which is not bullet proof..so get an extra one for spare parts inventory..all in all, mucho hours/inexpensive/especially cool in my '77/well worth the BS in install...........Ron
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ron,
i did a search earlier, i must have missed it, so i have another go.....ok, just found a post with your comments....... i'm pleased you say its well worth the effort !! - thank god for that:) i had my doubts, i thought about sticking the kit on ebay:D |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dickster
[B]ron, so you use the factory motors?? i'm pleased you say its well worth the effort !! - thank god for that:) i had my doubts, i thought about sticking the kit on ebay: /QUOTE] yeah, I used the factory motors, but the same motor design is available cheaper after market..and where the plastic connector rod is suposed to snap into a ball on lock..I drilled a hole in plastic rod and used a bolt and washers for connection. because I believe that is where it eventually dis-connects. I used a ton of patience on this one to do a great install..wires don't lay on lower door floor where water gets at them/ a sheet of sound deadned on door skin/soldered everything..the biggest PIA for me was running the wires..but I kept the install "trouble shooting" friendly/uncomplicated..it's a project to do when you have the time. and well well worth it..........Ron |
I had my friendly auto-electrician quote to do it using oem parts to my after-market 'Sigma' alarm. He quoted about an hour for a normal car, but at least two hours on a 911 due, so he claimed, to the difficulty of running the wiring from the doors back into the car...
I decided to leave it until re-assembling the doors post repaint, which is where I am right now. Al G |
I did the same conversion last Winter on an 86. Just a couple of observations:
1) The OEM door mounting holes fit perfectially the mounts on the aftermarket motors. 2) The door latch mechanism did not have the ball to mount the plastic rod used in the OEM version. I ended up fabricating a new rod from heavy wire. 3) I was able to fish the door wiring through one of the existing rubber plugs in the door and through another plug on the chassis. I did this without removing the door. 4) I connected the door wires to the OEM harness in the car and mounted the new control unit where the original would have been. That also gave me access to the various lines I needed for the alarm through the existing alarm plug. The remote antenna was fished through the radio antenna hole and routed along the windshield gasket. This was NOT a two hour job, but like Ron said, is really worth it. Tim |
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i've got a bently manual, but i dont recall seeing wiring diagram that detailed?? |
These are the motors I used. They look very similar to the OEM ones.
I don't have the Bentley in front of me, but I'm pretty sure they had the detailed wiring diagram for the OEM door locks for my Carrera. And, no, it was not easy, worth it, yes, but not easy. |
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