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Rear hub removal...
Hi. Just replacing the rear wheel bearings on my 1970 911T. Having a lot of difficulty getting the hubs off, this is well documented on the forums and will opt for a slide hammer as next plan of attack. My question is, would keeping the parking brake assembly together stop the hub from coming off? Seems everybody opts for taking it all apart and just wondered if this was necessary. Cheers...
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RETIRED
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I have successfully pushed out a hub with a suitable steel pipe and BF hammer. Once used a 3/4 drive socket, extension and a block of wood in front of the hammer.
Freezing the bearing helps on installation. Others have used all thread, washers and bolts as a puller. Or you can rent/borrow a screw type puller. Snappy makes a good one but pricey
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Thanks Bob. Are you talking about knocking the hub off from the back? I am attempting to 'pull' it off from the front with a couple of bars. I can keep going but a bit worried I might damage something, what about some heat around the hub? Parking brake disconnected or not? Cheers
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Well.....if you have a quality puller. You have to attach at least three points and three plus on the hub via the studs and such.....crank and it comes out. Just depends on the puller.
The BF hammer, pipe/socket and extension schnitzel is shade tree mechanics. Depends on how much you have/had to drink/desperate/cheap u is.....YMMV.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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So, once the 30mm nut is off there are no other nuts to come off that keep the hub on?
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The hub is press fit into the bearing.....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Has the cv joint to be removed? Although I can't find this documented it would make sense, wouldn't it?!
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Yes, remove the CV.....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Please clarify.......
Ryan,
I have a strange feeling that you and Bob were talking two different things (parts). I could be wrong so could you post a picture of the component you wanted removed? Just curious after reading several posts in this thread. Thanks. Tony |
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![]() Trying to prise this off? |
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Remove the axle first then using suitable piece of pipe that matches the OD of the hub drive it out from the inside or use a slide hammer (you can rent one or go to HF they're not very expensive) attached to the hub studs. The slide hammer is the preferred method.
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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Smoove1010
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The parking brake can be left in place.
When I did this job I removed the stub axle first, then pounded the hub out from the inside with a pipe that matched the hub in size. A slide hammer also works. I was a bit surprised at just how much force it took to get that hub out. Here's a thread describing similar methods: How to remove Hub stuck seized in rear wheel bearing? The outer bearing race stayed stuck to the hub in each case - there are a number of threads that show various methods of dealing with that. In my case a die-grinder was used to cut a groove in the race until it let go of the hub. If you search for threads on rear bearing replacements you'll see lots of discussion about this part of the job. Good luck, GK
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1987 3.2 911 Cabriolet Grand Prix White Exterior Five Shades of Burgundy Interior |
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The problem is that you have to destroy the bearing in the processs. You are pulling the outer race over and past the balls in the ball bearing, which offers a lot of resistance.
If you use a puller, then that will be the easiest way. Otherwise, you may want to make one. The key is to know which bearing race you want to pull against, and which to support. This is crucial in bearing replacement. I also suggest doing a search and reading the threads. |
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