That sounds like a very simple plan Ronnie. I might try that before I get the SC out

Do you open the bleed screws as in other operations? 1at a time, furthest first?

How did you keep 15psi constant as you opened the screws?

Wayne, yes - I open the caliper screws one at a time starting with the farthest one out. If you had a large enough res, you could open all calipers at once and really get the job done fast. If I did this on a daily basis, that's exactly what I would rig up.

I set the air pressure regulator at 15-17 psi, and when I'm ready to go, use a strip of 2-sided velcroe to keep the air gun trigger depressed (rubber band works just fine, too).

Obviously, you have to be mindful of how fast the res empties - quick, but not as quickly as you might think (don't have to rush around, in other words).

Just did all four calipers rebuild on my '87 Carrera, with host's supplied ATE seals. No problem bleeding, peddle a little soft for about the first mile or two through stop signs. Using good condition pads and rotors (i.e.near new thicknesses). Peddle settled in to excellent action thereafter.
While we are on the subject, how do you get the new dust covers in place on the rear calipers?

Some will flame me, but I flatten every third metal clip and they push on with your fingers. Never had an issue and I've done it several times.

I believe official Pelican protocol is to use a baby jar lid, or PVC pipe, or socket head. The size needs to be so you are pushing on outer perimiter. After tearing several seals this way I opted for option 1.

With British Trash, you don't want to push the MC to the bottom after doing a caliper rebuild, You push the MC piston into territory it doesn't go to where there is dirt and corrosion. Could you have eaten the MC seals?

brakes
 

I just finished mine. I used my homemade pressure bleeder and got quite a bit of air out along with some old fluid I thought I had gotten when I did it the two person method. I put about 1 quart of brake fluid in the pressure bleeder, pumped it to about 10 psi, then went around from the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and driver front. Each time I allowed about 1 cup of fluid to run from all four bleeders. My pedal feels pretty solid but I need to drive it to see what I've accomplished.

3/21... Drove and it feels much better. I must have had air pockets in mine.

Gratuitous pic of homemade pressure bleeder. Cost me all of about $15 for pump, gauge and fittings. I had a spare cap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426899893.jpg

Oh man, I hate re-open this thread, but I just did lines and caliper rebuilds like mowog63, and now I can't get a nice firm pedal. :( I just went around the block and had to hit the pedal twice to get some decent hardness, and I could not lock up the wheels.

I'll try to exercise the pistons tomorrow and report back.

mowog63, how did your brakes ultimately end up?

I'm good.

I had to pull the bleeder valves off and clean them out they were pretty clogged up.

We used a motive power bleeder and with nice clean bleeders we actually got a lot of air bubbles coming out the second go around.

But now the brakes are really good.

You are fairly close to me; if you want to borrow my power bleeder and have me come over and give you hand, let me know.

Erik.

Thanks, Erik. I also have a Motive, and we are going to attack it again tomorrow evening. I will report back.

Upside down calipers will result in this problem, speaking from experience. As others have said, the bleeder nipples need to be oriented as indicated in the earlier posts