Oil temp question 84 Carrera with converted numeric gauge?
 

So I had my gauge converted over to numeric and trying to see if it is reading correctly after...

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I can't seem to get the needle to move anywhere near 180 after driving, idling etc. I thought 180-210 was "normal" given outside temps, idling etc. I have purposely let it sit and idle on warm days and still does not get near 180. (maybe 160?) Thermostat is working and lines are getting hot and cooler is hot etc.

I will say my car never really ran all that hot to begin with even on 100+ days at the track, with the old gauge it stayed in the normal range...so not sure how this translates over with the new gauge.

Anyone else do this?

Did you also install the matching sender unit into the engine block?

Matching sender unit?

Do tell - :rolleyes:

OK, I swear I am not a rookie...

Is this right?

901 part number 901.641.632.00 and washer 900.123.007.30?

Never heard of this...learn something new everyday...I figured NWS would have said "oh yeah, hey dummy, if you want this to work right you need x,y,z -"

:mad:

Smarter minds will chime in, but I do remember that moving from my "bar" style to numeric in my '78 SC meant purchasing the correct sender unit. This unit screws into the engine block just right (facing engine) of the fan. Easy to break that wire so be careful when (if?) my diagnosis is correct.

I converted my 911 to numeric shortly after I bought it long ago. Yes you need a different sender.

I hated wondering just how hot it was. Now I have a number to see. One of the many stupid things Porsche did for the instruments and controls of the 911 was just lines to show the oil temp. I would bet it was a bean counter than caused it.

Nope, lots of companies pulled the numbers from different temp gauges over the years. The reason (as I've been told) was to cut down on questions from owners. "Why is my 911 running at 195° when my buddy's runs at 185°?" Harder for owners to compare if all they have is bars.

As far as needing a matching sender, that depends on how they converted it. If they replaced the exisiting temp gauge unit with the early unit w/numbers, yes, you probably need a matching sender.

On the other hand, if all they did was put a numeric gauge face over the original one, the same sender can be used. That assumes that they used a numeric face that matches the original gauge. See this page for info on the differences - http://newvintageusa.com/911modules

I made my own overlay for mine, as I wanted it calibrated in Celsius.

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When you say "had my gauge converted" you mean you have your original gauge with a numerical face installed rather than lines? Or did you install an older gauge in the car that had numbers? If you installed the older gauge you have to install a different sending unit. If you just had the numerical face put on your old gauge you shouldn't have to change anything.

How much does it cost to just have the numbers added?

I wonder if you could check the temp at the sender with an IR thermometer and see if its close?

All you really want to know when driving is cold/good/hot. That said, the unlabeled gauges do have exact temp labels, they're just very small and hidden behind the bezel. Once you know what temperature the gauge lines are, you know exactly what temperature the motor is at a glance.

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-9g7ehz...51.416.JPG?c=2 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280635338.jpg

Get the matching sender, confirm its functioning properly with an IR gun. I prefer the unlabeled gauge, myself. I would just put that back in...What I'd really like is one that is marked at the places we are concerned with. 190-210°F for good operating temperature, a mark for when the thermostat should open, a mark for when the fans should come on, fade blue until 190, fade to red from 210 to 230, top out at 250, etc...

Does anyone have a chart of which sender goes with what gauge? Mine is mismatched as well (in the other direction).

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This is my dash. I changed out the temperature gauge so long ago I often forget most 911s have lines. A added the volt meter to the tach several years ago after a bout with a bad voltage regulator. It also gets rid of the stupid shift light.

This layout makes sense to me, but it is my car and I have it the way I want.

+1

65-69 used 901.741.632.00
70-83 used 901.641.632.00
84-89 used 911.606.112.00

Both the 0-300 temperature head from a 74-76 car (or the 0-340 from a '77) need the correct sender to display "real" numbers.

I was asked about my temp gauge.

I changed it out over 20 years ago. It was one of the first things I changed when I bought my car. The sender is indeed NOT the stock factory sender.

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This image is rotated 180 degrees from a normal view to make the marking easier to read.

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Here it is enlarged even more.

I bought the sender and gauge as a package in 1995 so I don't remember where I bought it. It was not an internet purchase back then for sure. The gauge and sender work just fine all these years later.

What sender is that? Do any of you know?

On a similar vein that Arne2 stated, I learned that the temp gauge on my Cayman (and many new cars) is dampened big time to remain at 185 F even if the temp rises much higher. That way the drivers aren't worried the temp is climbing because they can't see that it is. Once it reaches a critical level, something like 230, your gauge suddenly reads correctly and your hot engine light comes on. I don't agree with that philosophy but apparently it's quite common.
But back on topic, like others have said, if he just had his gauge altered with a different scale (to show actual temps) would he not be OK with the same sending unit?

For those considering this mod, you can make it super simple by going to New Vintage and select the overlay which corresponds to your oil temp face. It took me 5 mins and only a few bucks to go from lines to numeric with no sender change since you use your existing. Just remove the gauge R&R 4 screws insert overlay and that’s it.

911 OIL TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE MODULE OVERLAYS - New Vintage USA INC