Reverse lockout - I can't get it right - RennShift/Stomski
 

I just installed a JWest RennShifter along with a Stomski coupler. I cannot put in words how much better this setup is than the well worn stuff that came out of the car.

I've adjusted the coupler a few times and can shift without issue.

What I have been unable to do is adjust the coupler so that the reverse lockout "clicks down" - see photo.

I know I'm missing something and before I change anything, I could you some feedback/guidance.

TIA,
Wayne


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427225571.jpg

Try centering the shifter and loosening the coupler and turning it a bit towards the passenger side.

Turning the coupler towards the passenger side?

Have you contacted James at JWest for advice? That would be my first step, not posting here......

Hi Scott - Yes, I have contacted James with the same question.

Same thing happened to me tried adjusting 20 or more times took it out and replaced it with the original shifter.

I had a similar problem and eventually gave up. The small tab intended to keep you going into reverse will not quite 'latch' as I think it should. Instead I installed the lock out device which comes with the Rennshifter, and use it when there is some vigorous driving contemplated. It slides easily into position when needed. Driving around town without the ill-fitting tab, with the lock out device engaged, works just fine.

I just tackled this very job this morning!

This is not as difficult as it seems. I found on my car that the Rennshifter worked fine after I dropped it in, but getting the reverse lockout to work correctly required adjustment at the coupler. I read a lot of threads on coupler adjustment and was almost afraid to tackle it myself, but it really isn't difficult, even for a donkey such as myself.

It was good to open it up the coupler anyway - when I did I found that one of the bushings was not just worn - it had completely failed and one end of the pin was just flopping in the coupler. There was so much slop in my failed coupler, I doubt the lockout could have been made to work at all.

Anyway, here is what I did:

1. Install the Rennshifter shifter per the instructions, and back out the stop screws on the fore/aft of the housing. At this point, you should be able to engage all gears, but you might observe as I did that the lockout pawl is nowhere near where it needs to be to do its job. So...

2. Car off, handbrake on, shift gearbox to neutral, then open up the coupler access panel on the tunnel by the back seat to expose the shift coupler. Loosen the coupler clamp bolt so the shifter rod turns freely in the coupler. (If you need to replace bushings or put in the Stromski coupler, remove, repair, replace the coupler now, as I did).

3. Coupler installed on gearbox shaft but shift rod clamp loose, rotate the gearbox end of the coupler toward 5th/reverse (it's still in neutral, and will rotate a little).

4. Without disturbing the gearbox shift shaft, position the shift lever so it will properly engage the lockout pawl from neutral - i.e. allow the shifter to go into reverse. Position it so that the point of the pawl will touch the shifter just forward of its midpoint, so it will deflect forward and allow the shifter to go into reverse from neutral, but would not if the shift lever was any further forward.

5. Tighten the clamp - now check to see if the pawl will engage and block the shifter correctly when shifting from 5th. If it doesn't, back to neutral, and make fine adjustments at the coupler - rotate slightly, or in/out just a thread or two at a time until you have the lockout pawl working properly out of 5th (all this can be done without starting or driving the car). When it seems to be working correctly, tighten the clamp.

6. Test drive the car, see if the lockout pawl is working correclty. Check that as you downshift from 5th that it isn't partially engaging reverse (i.e. grinding), even with the lockout pawl engaging. If it is, adjust the coupler out (small adjustments) until you can safely shift to neutral from 5th and that the pawl lockout is still engaging.

7. After you are happy, adjust the stop set screws on the housing per the Jwest instructions.

Note I said "threads" when talking about adjustments on the shift rod. The coupler has male threads, but the inside of the rod does not. These threads do, however, make it easy to adjust - you can feel how many threads you move as you slide the coupler back and forth on the shift rod - just a couple at a time. I hope these instructions are clear, but trust me, it just isn't that difficult, just dive in. Everything is easily accessible. For me, the hardest job was removing the pin from the coupler to install new bushings.

By the way - I also installed the Jwest coupler clamp which doesn't require two wrenches to tighten the locking bolt - really makes adjustments a snap for one person = highly recommended! I did the coupler rebuild and the reverse lockout adjustment in under two hours by myself, including lunch, and I am by no means an accomplished wrench. Just take your time, and think through each move carefully as you make fine adjustments. This was all far easier than removing that $#*&^% console!!!

Thanks John for that indepth write up and to everyone else, as well, for their input. I think I'm set now. You are right John, not that difficult once it clicks in your mind's eye on how it's supposed to work - just very frustrating. I found the toughest job (after getting th console out ;-) was making fine adjustments at the couple end. And I must agree with John that JWest's clamp makes the job easier - in fact I went for JWest's complete package - I think it was the right move - shifter/coupler/clamp/bushings- I am a very happy camper!

Glad you got it working, Wayne. I also did the JWest full monty, and like you, glad that I did. The clamp is a great upgrade no matter what shifter you use.

John,

Thanks for writing this up. I'm just about to order the JWest shifter for my '86. I already have a Wevo coupler in i.

One other question. Did you use the stock knob and shift boot? If so, how difficult was that to set up?

Pablox,
I used my stock boot and purchased a new shift knob - I did not like the knob that came with my car.
Wayne

pablox -

I had planned to keep my original knob, but I kind of bunged it up getting it off my old shifter, it did NOT want to come off. The old "tap off using a 15mm wrench" technique got me nowhere, and it got a little messed up when I grabbed it with a channel locks. I was surprised to find an OEM replacement is NOT available from our host.

For now I am using one of the JWest thread-on knobs that a friend loaned me. It is a nice teardrop aluminum knob that feels great, but I just am not a fan of that look. I am debating about which way to go, though I lean toward reconditioning my old one, or trying to pick one up used. I have not been able to find a source for an original new one or good replica. I picked one up on eBay that sort of looks like the old one in the photo, but it isn't even close, and looks even cheaper and cheesier than the OEM knob, lol. If I can't find a good original looking knob, I may try one of the wooden JWest knobs, I like the thread-on as opposed to the crush sleeve mounting.

I currently only have the new rubber boot that comes with the shifter on there, but that is because I left my console and leather shift boot off pending installation of a new carpet set. Will probably try to go back pretty close to stock look once that is done.

Thanks John and Wayne.

I think I'll just order the JWest plastic knob and leave the original one on the original shifter.