Valve Adjustment - First Timer
 

OK, the girl is finally out of hibernation after the divorce! Now for getting her on the road again! I've decided to give her the tune-up she deserves, after waiting this long, and tackling the valve adjustment myself. It seems a little daunting, as never doing something like this, as well as, never working on a 911, but hey, why not?

So, my question is; the Kirk Engines valve adjustment tool, will it make it easier to complete the job and worth the investment, or should I get in and do it the old fashioned way? I'm a do-it-yourselfer, with limited automotive skills, but always up for something new or a challenge.

Thanks for your suggestions.

PS: 1984 3.2 911 Coupe

Get in there with the old school tool and make it happen!

Just loosen each rocker, and then tighten till you get a bit of friction, and lock it back up.

Before you do anything, be sure you could locate that tiny Z1 mark on your engine pully, so you could line up your cylinders properly.

The job is a pain, but not that bad. It will be a nice way to get you back in touch with your car.

The tool will make it easier and probably more accurate as well.

If I may suggest, see if a fellow Pelican can keep you company as you do this to insure you are not over tightening in the adjustment.

Better to keep the valves loose then too tight, always default to the loose side to be safe. As you do it more often, then you can go to PAG specs and even take out all the back lash.

A partial drop will make easier access too.

Break a Leg Brother, welcome back to your freedom :-)

You ask about the Kirk valve lash adjusting too.

On my blog, address shown below, I just posted an article about the Kirk tool and some of my experiences with it. It may interest you to check it out. The tool does make adjusting the harder to reach valves, especially, easier to do.

Thanks for posting.....you had me, wondered why the Kirk tool would not work!!!

Great customer service.

This is the tool I use:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427816634.jpg


My first attempt with the feeler gauge was a bit frustrating, but I got it done.


After that I searched this list and studied the Kirk tool and other tools. I stumbled on a post on Rennlist that talked about the 36 degree method used by some old time Porsche guy in South Africa.....I really liked how it worked and this is what I use now.

What is 36 degree method? Well the 6mm stud that you are adjusting has 1MM of change for each 360 degrees of rotation. This is because the thread pitch is 1mm.

So 1/10 of a turn or 36 degrees = .1mm. And .1mm is what we are looking for in the way of clearance! So if you tighten the adjuster down and then back off 36 degrees, that is the clearance you want.

This is the same theory as the Kirk too, but I think easiear to use once you have done one or 2 valves you are an expert.

Here is a prototype of another version I am doing:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427816753.jpg

I just did mine for the first time this week on my 930 using the feeler gauge tool I bought off of pelican.. The first time through was a long process as I was taking my time, but the second time though to double check went much fast and I would say I adjusted 10 out of the 12 valves on the second time though again. Make sure to buy extra feeler gauges as well. I used 5 in total and most likely because it was my first time doing it..guessing next time it will take less

Really not that tough of a job but tedious and would suggest breaking it up into two nights to ensure that you don't rush through which is what I did. First night I drained oil and removed the valve covers and cleaned them well and the surfaces on the block. Second night just focused on the actual valve adjustment.

That 36 degree method sounds pretty slick.. might have to look into that the next time!

Good luck!

you dont need the tool.
DO NOT losen the nut all the way.
if the valve is too tight:
as you losen the nut, turn the adjust CCW with the nut. use the slot in the adjuster as an angle gauge. maybe 15 or 20 degrees is enough. if too far, go back CW less than what you did CCW.

if the valve is too lose:
put a little CW pressure on the screw driver as you slightly losen the nut. then tighten the nut AND turn the adjuster CW a small amount.

after each, check again.
as long as the feeler will go in, the valve is NOT too tight. you want it snug with some drag. (not a queen).
get the porsche feeler gauge tool.

remove the plugs to help turn the engine. also wiggle the rocker before checking. if it is tight, make sure you are on the right one and the crank is where it is suppose to be.
when done, turn the crank over a few times and then check them again.
its not rocket science, you just have to learn the feel of the gauge. THAT is the big deal, not actually making the adjustment. remember, if you canget the feeler in , it is not too tight.

Not sure about that tool, but once I started using the "backside" method on my 930, I never looked back.

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment - The Backside Method

Will also mention that I never had to remove the spark plugs to turn the engine. Granted my 930 was not a "high compression" affair, but all I ever did was use one hand to press on the v-belt (to take any/all slack out of it), while turning the alternator nut with the other; obviously being careful not to pinch my fingers between the belt and the pulley. YMMV.

Used the Kirk tool two months ago. It was my first time adjusting the valves. Wasn't hard and I like the concept of the tool as it removes most of the "feel" from the adjustment process.

https://youtu.be/dS7jtsx-t_4, watch this video it may help.

good luck.

Like he say's. It takes years of hands on to get the right feel adjusting valves even when there's easy access to the rockers. Buy the tool you wont regret it.

Yup, and since I was 54 when I first saw my first valve, let alone adjusting one... I just don't have that kind of time :D:):D

Did do it the normal way but double check it using the Backside method but now at 57 (still in my lucky year since I was born in 57) I got Kirk tool and will try it on the week-end.

Lucky for me, I cut my teeth on 1950s and 1960s air-cooled VWs, so I have adjusted more valves than I care to remember! However, my 993, with hydraulic lifters, has done away with all of that!

Thanks all for the advice and that video ( It's great to see how someone else did it before I do it). Will tackle this in next couple of weeks and get her on the road!:D

the first time is a bit daunting. there is some work thats done blind on the intake side. its hard to get two hands in there, just go slow, make sure the valve youre adjusting has a loose rocker and dont leave them too loose or youll be doing the whole thing over. good luck

+1 on this video. I stumbled across it a month ago. I wish we had more video's on this topic :D

I am amused to see so many opinions on a simple ... task.