Mold & Mildew Question

[nrets617]

Found a nice longhood that due to inactivity needs the frunk liner and interior carpet replaced due to mold and mildew. I'm concerned the heater/air ducts could also have mold. How does one clean and/or replace and it is a big job? Regarding the interior carpet, what am I looking at for labor hours to properly remove the carpet/glue for a longhood? Any other concerns (there is no water damage or rust on the car) specific to the mold/mildew issue? Thank you.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by nrets617

I'm concerned the heater/air ducts could also have mold.

I am not sensing urgency to purge every bit of mold in your air duct system.

There is probably some "stuff" in there. If you keep the car dry and use the system the mold will wither and die. Probably the former rather than the latter.

Carpet in the front trunk - medium job. Interior carpet - schedule a couple of weeks if you have a day time job and family. It's not a quick fix - just loads of grunt work.

Plenty to search on for helpful suggestions.

[tirwin]

Not a longhood but I did this in my '83. It was the first major project I did on my 911. I did new interior and new headliner myself. I replaced the ducting too. Now I could do it in probably 25% of the time it took me the first time. If you don't need to do the headliner that will save a lot of time -- no glass to R&R.

Bagging and tagging everything you remove takes time. Print out the relevant pages from the PET. Highlight stuff you know you will need to replace as you go. Strike through things that aren't relevant so you don't waste time looking for it on reassembly. Plan the work and then work the plan.

I would allocate a day to remove and document everything -- seats, door panels, trim pieces, etc. Take lots of pictures as you go too. By then you should have a good idea of what you need. Remember the "while you're in there" bug will strike too. Assemble your parts order list.

Assuming you don't find any surprises along the way then allocate a day, maybe two for thorough cleaning. Use a good industrial strength degreaser like Marine Clean. I also like the purple Super Clean stuff you can get at most auto parts stores. The carpet glue may take adhesive remover or paint stripper -- Citristrip is a good choice.

Lay out your carpet on the floor as you take it out. Then you'll have a map of how to put it back in. You will forget by the time you're ready to install.

I would allocate at least a couple of days for installation.

Now double everything I just said.

[RSBob]

Piling on tirwin's suggestion, before you remove the carpet take lots of pics of how it goes back together again.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by tirwin

I also like the purple Super Clean stuff you can get at most auto parts stores.

Tim,

I use a de-greaser/cleaner called Purple Power. 2.5 gallon jug is under $15 or individual spray bottles. Not stinky and works well.

The super clean is a little more expensive but I will try that. Assuming it's in the family of Formula 409 type de-greasers (i.e., non hydro carbon based).

Also, is it critical to get all the old carpet adhesive off given the new will bond to it?

[tirwin]

Bob,

I bought one of those little ultrasonic cleaners at HF when it was on sale. I fill it about 1/2 with distilled water. Then I put parts in either a ziplock bag or an old plastic cup and fill it with Super Clean straight -- not diluted. That way it doesn't make a mess and changing the cleaner is easy. The Super Clean stuff is PFM (Pure Freakin' Magic). I bought a spray bottle of it and now I buy it in gallons. For bigger stuff I spray it on, let it sit and then use a nylon or brass brush. Best stuff I've found to minimize elbow grease.

You're right on the carpet glue. When I did my interior I put down Dynamat, CCF and MLV in the floorpan so I wanted to start with an uber-clean surface. In retrospect, I would not do that again. But since the OP is worried about smell I figure better to just clean everything good to eliminate any odor sources -- you know, while you're in there.

Nineball's thread on interior is a good read even for people that don't care about doing stereo performance/sound deadening stuff. Lots of pics of what is involved.

[fiminod]

Not to be captain obvious here but, chances are extremely good that the mold is everywhere. I would remove the seats and take a look & whiff underneath the decide to clean or replace, same with the door cards, pull them and if there's a lack of vapor barrier then its going to be there as well. Door pockets, inside the glove box, rear deck remove and inspect, all the nooks under the dash like above the glove box. Under the bonnet everything that sits aft of the fuel tank, all the controls and ducts, a substantial PITA. And then when everything is scrubbed and dried and replaced, do not be surprised that when you go for a spin and realize that it still has the faint odor of mold that there isn't a lot you can do about the mold in the tunnels because Bob is correct in that it will wither but not die...