Fuse melted but didn't blow

[Bo]

I'm trying to figure this out - a while back the car died on me and the problem was that the fuel pump quit.
#1 I check the fuse - it looked ok, so I was preparing to pay for a new fuel pump.
As a last check before I remove the pump, I decide to see if current is going to the pump - it is NOT. So, I remove the fuse, and even though it is not blown, is see that the plastic body is partially melted on one side, causing the fuse to be shorter than normal, and therefore loose contact.
I replace the fuse with a new one and - voila - the car fires right up!
How can the fuse get so hot it melts but without the metal in it blowing?
Needless to say, I'm now hesitant to take the car for long drives, as who knows when/if this will happen again...
Can it be corrosion on the posts that increases the resistance, and thus heating the fuse? If so, will simply brushing the terminals cure this problem?

[Targa77]

Clean the posts for the fuses and the pins for the relays and put dielectric grease on all contacts. I did this for every fuse and relay on my car and I would highly recommend that you do the same. Cheap insurance if you ask me. Don't forget the 14-pin connection in the engine compartment!

[Jdub]

What Targa said. I removed every fuse when I bought my SC, threw them all away, and started from scratch using the fuse cover, the Haynes, Bentley, and my owner's manual to replace each fuse with new ones. Cleaned the contacts, turned every screw up and back again, then covered with dielectric grease. This includes the three-fuse box in the engine compartment.

Get the red, blue, white, and yellow fuses in the blister packs and use each as needed, without scrimping in a 8amp for the yellow fuse as so often happens.

John