You should be able to tackle it. Most of my time was spent researching and understanding what was what. I took 4 months part time, but I was gone for a month or two of that. I went weeks without working on it. I hope that I have been able to save someone most of that time. If not, then there is always this forum to ask questions. I think it could be done in a week or so assuming you can spend 4-6 hours a day. I had to make some brackets and modify a Rennline closeout to work - that took time. I can provide part numbers and sources for everything I used.

Thanks! I can't fathom incorporating a CAN bus. Maybe if I had the car stripped of everything and I was building it back from scratch.

I tried to use much of the original wiring as I could - it seemed to be good quality and in good shape. I came across very little corrosion/oxidation once I stripped back insulation. The copper looked very clean and took solder well. I was surprised after 30 years.

Let me know next time you are visiting, maybe we can meet up and BS for a bit. :)

Sounds good Dennis!

nice clean installation. The factory didn't get this right until the 964.

Mike,

Your work is an inspiration. Thanks for posting.

Jeff

Thanks RSTarga and Taxi!...took is out for a drive today - first time in about 4 months. I almost forgot how much fun the car is. I can feel the weight loss too with all the dead systems gone. I am going to have to drive it for a while before I bring it down for the next phase. Too much fun.

I need to start this project on my 70t subd

Subscribed!

Today I did the preliminary install of the keyless door lock system and got it working. The chrome handles I have do not have the door lock micro switches in them so I needed a way to lock the doors and I wanted a remote keyless entry. I found this system on Amazon for $30:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478304030.jpg

With a little experimentation I figured out that the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, when powered with +12VDC and the Green/Red wire grounded powers the actuator to lock the door. When you put +12VDC on the Green/Red wire and ground the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, then the actuator is powered to unlock the doors. The other connections for the internal switch of the actuator must just report the position back to the control module. I will not be using those.

The implementation of a modern remote keyless entry module was real easy given this. I just put +12VDC on the main input (red wire) to the control module and the Violet and Violet/Black wires that are listed as #87 Normally Open (Input). I grounded the control module black ground wire along with the White/Black and Brown/Black wires that are listed as #87A Normally Closed. I then connected the Blue/Black wire from the module to the Green/Red wire at the actuator and then the Green/Black wire from the module to the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator.

The control module has both Green/Black and Blue/Black wires to the actuator rest at ground when not in use. When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote, the control module puts +12VDC on the appropriate wire (Green/Black or Blue/Black) to move the actuator the appropriate direction. It then grounds both wires again after about a second.

The control module is so light that I just used velcro to attach it. The valet switch and red flashing LED are hooked up but not located. I may not even keep these features. I don't see any benefit. The valet button is used for programming higher level functions. The red LED flashes brightly when the doors are locked.

I have not done my final wiring bundle as I might implement the horn honk feature. I want to make sure I am in the final configuration before I cut the unused wires and shorten all of the three runs to the final lengths and routing (power, ground and actuator runs).

I put the power to position 17 of my fuse box for constant power and fused it at 15amps. The ground will go where the wiper control module is attached right above the fuse box. I reused the original harness for the door lock system but cut off several branches that went to power, ground and the old original control module. The original control module was located on the driver's side. I wanted my new one on the other side of the car, so I flipped the harness. The actuator power and ground wires are daisy chained in the original harness. They went from the original control module location behind the gauges to the driver's side door connector then to the passenger's side door connector. By flipping the harness, I had the wires to the original control module right near where I put the new one.

Not bad for $30.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478304047.jpg

Here is the actuator hookup for future reference:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478305520.jpg

The updated fuse list:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478307541.jpg