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Unstable at high speeds - suspension questions x2
My 1968 SWB is unstable at high speeds. Very twitchy. It's running a heavier engine than stock - a 3.2. And yet, the weight distribution is almost perfect.
I have had the suspension professionally set up. It was a real bugger at the time. Everything underneath the car is new. My questions to those in the know please: 1/ can I simply adjust the toe in to rectify this issue? Or are there a raft of other knock on factors to consider? 2/ I'm also thinking of adding a rear sway bar. I believe the brackets need to be welded on. Would this be a worthwhile exercise to improve cornering? I would take it to a Porsche professional but it takes months to get the car looked at & it costs a fortune here in Melbourne, Australia. Cheers |
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Caster often plays a bigger role in high speed instability than toe, however if any are significantly out of spec you will have problems. If everything is new as you say and it is aligned properly, have you considered tire balance?
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what does the professionally set up suspension consist of? + tires/pressure/dimensions?
A rear roll bar would definitely be good. |
Full suspension specs would be helpful to help diagnose. Also include wheel and tire sizes.
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Twitchy? Or floaty, darty?
Lots to consider as others have stated. If the shocks and bushings are good, then look at wheel bearings, ball joints, and stance of the car (lower in front). Are the tires new and the same front and rear? Does it matter if the gas tank is full? What shocks do you have? Alignment settings? |
In 1970 the factory introduced a new front spoiler with the intent of giving the nose more downforce. It's not a big gaudy thing but above 85mph it works. Not original on a SWB car, but with a 3.2 swap you don't have an original car.
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+1 more data please OP
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I seriously doubt that asking a bunch of amateurs to help solve a problem that the suspension pros screwed up will be of much help other than adding more confusion. Cheers, Joe |
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More data. How fast? Suspension or aero?
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Technology has marched on. |
I'm not an amateur, however, I am new to 911 Porsches so I am still learning the differences of these cars.
I would check the front caster and the rear toe settings. A front caster setting too positive will cause steering to be too sensitive or darty over bumps. Too negative and the vehicle will wander. An Incorrect rear toe setting will cause a steering pull that will require constant steering correction at highway speeds. The vehicle will also feel "squirrely" at highway speeds because the rear tires won't be following the fronts and are steering the car too while the driver is fighting this and correcting with the steering wheel. |
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The SWB cars had two 25 pound curved weights inside the front bumper to combat this. The weights are at the bumper attach points. Has someone previously removed yours?
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Susupension
The settings are on a piece of paper in storage. Ill check my posts from last year as I did publish my findings. I followed the recommendations from the Pelicanites from a post early last year. Although it was problematic as the car is not stock (engine weight) and therefore standard settings don't really apply.
I was hoping that if it was just a toe adjustment i could do this myself. Faffing around with castor is more technical and I will therefore will require professional help. damn it. Avanti - you made some good points. Its darty over bumps. Sounds like this is more the issue. Speed - 70 mph + No aero mods. Regards Roland |
I suffered instability at speed in my 940 kg 2.8 hot rod. Typically when I was shifting up and perhaps putting in small steering input unconciously. I always felt it was not planted properly.
Carefull checking revealed nil rear toe and no rear camber and a few degrees of right thrust. We adjusted the rear to 2.0 neg camber and 1/16 toe. It shows zero thrust so no rear steer The car is literally transformed its stable at speed and turns in very predictably. Just my experience.SmileWavy |
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