proper respray

[m962b]

How does one go about this? can a simple body shop do it properly or is this a specialist item. I would like to keep it the original silver color with quality paint.

How do i even start this process? fFnd the paint, then find a shop?

Anyone with recommendations in Stuart Florida, or Jupiter Florida is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[ganun]

Michelian restorations, Stuart,
Check them out

[m962b]

Do you have any contact info or an idea of where they are for Michelian Rstorations? Ive tried to google them, but to no avail.

Thanks,

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by m962b

How do i even start this process? fFnd the paint, then find a shop?

I would find the shop that sprays the paint you prefer.

Glasurit was used in 1978. The basic solid colors were single stage urethane with hardener - 21 Line which is now 22 line due to restrictions on lead content

The metallics had a base coat/clear coat application. I don't know the correct Glasurit line number.

California is extremely strict on use of the 22 line - like, not allowed. Not sure about Florida. I can still get it in Ohio at the BASF paint jobber.

That said, there are many paints that are high quality if you go with either type - SS or BC/CC. Given the freakish values of 911's it may payout to get the original paint brand and spend a little more

Also, references like ganun provided can save you a lot of time.

Michaelian Restoration, Inc.

3228 S.E. Dominica Terrace

Stuart, Fl. 34997

Michailian Restoration, Inc.

I think that a shop that is skewed towards specialty cars is a fair cost trade off vs. high-end only cars. I know nothing about Michaelian Restorations but one vote of confidence is worth a road trip to check the place out.

[m962b]

Thanks guys.

Ill head to Michelian on Monday and check them out.

Id rather get original paint. Ive dreamt of an original 911 forever. Not doing it for resale, just for authenticity!

[Bob Kontak]

I see four BASF paint jobbers in Miami. BASF owns Glasurit and RM.

Let them know your paint code. They can tell you the original Glasurit paint Line.

It's expensive. I would say with the whole batch of correct stuff, $1,250 will take a good dent out of the total. I could be low depending on my wild ass guess and the type (e.g., bare metal vs keeping the current base paint) of paint job you get.

FINISHMASTER INC #161
10430 Sw 187th St
Miami, FL 33157-6725

Federal Tech Distributor, Inc.
2157 Nw 23rd Ave
Miami, FL 33142-7376
(305)633-9111

P. J. Iron Body Supply
7040 Nw 2nd Ave
Miami, FL 33150-4008
(305)757-3044

Perrine Auto Body Supply
10676 Sw 186th St
Miami, FL 33157-6720
(305)251-0008

[tctnd]

If you do it at all do it right. Glass out, trim off etc. Anything less and you would be better off doing nothing.
JMHO,
Phil

[sc_rufctr]

Original paint is a good start but your painter has to know were to put that paint. EG, The Wurth stone guard areas.
Also the hand applied black paint on the inside of the doors etc is very difficult to replicate.

There's a local painter that can replicate what was done at the factory however a repaint by him is well over $15,000 but I've seen his work and it's almost flawless.
As an example even the over spray around the seat anchor points looks correct.

[Eli W]

+1 one on the glass out trim off paint.

The best paint in the know universe will look like dogs ass if the shop takes the short way out.

Taking the glass out is the bare minimum. Bumpers need to be off the bellows all the rubber all of it should be taken off.

[Bill Douglas]

And it needs to be sanded down and sprayed with a primer, then that sanded down. Otherwise it just looks like shiny bad paintwork. Top coats follow the surface underneath so if it has stone chips they will show up in the new paintjob if the prep hasn't been done properly.

But yes, nothing looks better than a fresh great paintjob.

[stuartbrs]

Windows and trim out is pretty much mandatory for a proper finish.. then once you start putting all the old bits back on you will notice how tired they look against the new paint.. you are ont he start of the slippery slope here I`m afraid Fun though!!

[Cairo94507]

Don't rush into this project. Take your time to review the restoration threads and seek out recommended body shops. Recommended by other Porsche owners. If you expect a great job, it will cost you money. I am guessing if your body is in good shape already, with just minor dings and small dents and scratches, you are in the $12-15K range for a good repaint.

[dfhtrhjn]

A good repaint is all in the prep, the spraying is only 10% of the work. When I repainted one of my Porsches I pulled all the glass, rubber, trim, bumpers, sunroof, anything I could take off and sanded every inch. I recommend towing the car to have it painted so they can do the bumpers, fenders, tail, and other parts separately; there are angles and spaces the sprayer will never reach if the car is assembled. It also makes sense to replace every piece of weather stripping.

Prep-work costs you nothing but time, and it means everything when they spray it. It's fun, grab case of beer and sand till your arm falls off

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by dfhtrhjn

A good repaint is all in the prep, the spraying is only 10% of the work. When I repainted one of my Porsches I pulled all the glass, rubber, trim, bumpers, sunroof, anything I could take off and sanded every inch. I recommend towing the car to have it painted so they can do the bumpers, fenders, tail, and other parts separately; there are angles and spaces the sprayer will never reach if the car is assembled. It also makes sense to replace every piece of weather stripping.

Prep-work costs you nothing but time, and it means everything when they spray it. It's fun, grab case of beer and sand till your arm falls off

When doing this sort of prep work, do you have to worry about rust setting in? It would probably take someone like myself more than a month of work in my off-time, right?

[Justin@Athens]

If you go down to bare metal, surface rust will begin to form. In most cases though, I suggest leaving the factory primer intact. Only in areas which require significant body work, should you need to put a thin primer coat on top of exposed bare metal. The body shop of your choice may then elect to put a fresh primer coat on just before painting, or wet sand the surface you have prepared and simply lay down fresh paint.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by OsoMoore

When doing this sort of prep work, do you have to worry about rust setting in? It would probably take someone like myself more than a month of work in my off-time, right?

I stripped (chemically) a 944 Turbo to the nub. It was clear where the factory galvanizing was and was not from previous body work.

I never had any visible corrosion set in and some panels sat for weeks. Now, I did hand sand or DA any surface that was naked for a while before I put base primer on. Wash primer I think they called it. Sikkens.

As to time. Give yourself three to six months and that is if you are ambitious. If you have no family, different story. Two hard months. It's just work and lots of it.

A Ford Taurus? There is a good deal of "that's good enough". Hard to do that with a 911.

[HiWind]

thanks for all the pointers above .. taking my 993 (741-swartz) in for a full glass-out respray soon.
Just received a big box (with jelly beans) with rubber trim, windscreen seals etc..
Hope to get it done in a month if we dont find any surprises; cost $10-15k

I have a choice between the water based and solvent based paints and BASF or Chemspec.

The plan is:
- strip
- sand to primer (except windscreen rust bubbles on left, rain gutter at rear right)
- remove all high spots (frunk lid) and dings (sun roof, rear fender) etc.
- 3-4 coats base and 3 coats clear to get to original thickness spec

Any input on this plan and the piant choice most appreciated - thanks!

Matt
White 3.8 964 - Black 993 C2 - White 05 Cup - SY GT3 MkI