Hi guys,

Just tried to install my coupler after having replaced the bushing and ran into two problems:

1 After having aligned the little cone screw, I accidentally stripped the cone screw. The cone screw isn't all the way in but I do notice that the screw was in deep enough to engage the rod connecting to it.

2 I believe my coupler with bushing is way too stiff. Is it a matter of personal preference or should I have it really lose?

3 I haven't installed the other final two pieces of my shift bushing and rod bushing which will be tomorrow, but I noticed that I wasn't able to shift to third, 4th or Reverse.

Do you might know why that's the case?

Sincerely,
Dany

http://www.pelicanparts.com/more_inf...03627-2300.jpg

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This post was auto-generated based upon a question asked on our tech article page here:

Hey Dany, My gut tells me that the cone screw is not quite in the right position, but it could also be that a previous technician had adjusted the linkage with the bushings worn, and tried to get it as good as it could be without replacing any parts. The true test will be when you get all the pieces replaced, you start the car, press the clutch and try to engage the gears. Chances are you will be OK, but if not let me know and we can try to figure it out. Adjusting these takes a fair bit of concentration and visualization but if you still have the issue after all parts are replaced I will do my best to guide you through it. Also it will help me to know which gear engages when it is shifted in to what would normally be 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc. For example if you get 3rd where 1st usually is then we need to turn the shifter adjustment to the right. The shifter is sometimes a little stiff for a while but should loosen up after a month or so of driving.

- Casey

I too just replaced mine and its a little tight,I'm sure it will loosen up after a little use.

1: That's bad, time to retap if it's not holding

2: This is your preference, the tighter the fit the less extraneous motion in the shift rod, which means increased accuracy in the shift rod input to transmission. These are replaced because they get loose.

3:After replacing those bushings and before thinking your finished you need to refer to the tech articles available on the top tabs here and they clearly explain how to reset/properly adjust the shifter and coupler.

3a: Once you figure that out, more fine adjustments will likely be required to achieve the exact shift input/feel/engagement for your desire.

Good Luck

I had to replace the cone screw in mine right after the new coupler went in. Seems they fail frequently in this job. Less than 5 bucks for one. Made a big difference for mine

Thanks Saucy,

I'll definitely go at it again just to achieve the exact desirous feel. :)

I also mentioned to Casey in a separate thread that I may have faulted my Shift knob gear box upon mistakenly disassembling it to get to the shifter bushing. I hear some clinking sounds in there so I'll go in it again to check it out and report back should I find anything weird.

More adjustments to come, pretty darn addicting. :)

Anywho, thanks for the response brotha.

Dany

Can you refer/link me to where you got your cone screw?

Thanks.

I have a good used one. PM me if interested.

I too have been playing with my 915 shift coupler. I'm curious if there is a factory procedure for adjusting the coupler? I read that someone adjusted it while engaged in the 3 or 4th gear, that actaully seems like it could make life a lot easier when adjusting the coupler and I'll try that.

The thing I've been struggling with is that my 2nd shift is clunky. It won't go straight down into gear, it feels like it goes part way then I have to apply pressure to the right and then it fully engages. I'm curious if other 915 owners experience this, is it a normal shift characteristic or is this simply a problem to fix with the shift coupler? I ask because I've tried over and over to get it better twisting the couple left or right and in and out and can't seem to find a better position. It's hard to make tiny adjustments on the coupler, as small movement makes such a big difference!

Here is the basic coupler adjustment procedure recommended by Bob Tindel at Pelican.
1. Remove the cover plate on the tunnel, behind the front seats.
2. Place gearshift in neutral.
3. Loosen the shift rod clamp. Turn the shift rod (by grasping the
coupler) to the right, as seen in the direction of driving.
4. Move gearshift lever to the left until it touches the stop, and
move it fore-and-aft until the lower section is vertical when viewed from the side (the fore-and-aft adjustment can be modified
to suit the driver, provided sufficient length of the shifter rod remains inside the clamp).
5. Lightly tighten the clamp.
6. Check if equally long travel is evident in gears 1-4, and that 5th
and reverse can be easily engaged. Correct as necessary.
7. Tighten the clamp securely.
8. Shift into 5th gear, and check the shift rod for rotational play.
A definite (slight) amount of play must be evident.

This is also a good time to inspect the shift coupler bushings. Be aware that some fore-and-aft play in the coupler bushings is required

Thanks for that procedure Tkmoore!

I think your first problem has been addressed, as for not being able to get into gear, usually that has to do with adjustment, which, in addition to TKMOORE's step by step from bob tindel, takes a bit of fiddling and finesse to figure out, especially in terms of finding the middle/vertical neutral position. If you're a visual person here's a video on how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3nPONBAaZM

Here's the tech article TK referenced on how to adjust Pelican Technical Article: 911 Shifting Improvements

You want the coupler to be stiff. That tightens up the shifting a great deal, and it doesn't make shifting harder at all. Any problems you are having are not due to the cross pin being tight on the replaced two plastic bushings.