Removing paint from Fuchs
 

Guys,

I read all the messages, tech articles, ... on this subject before deciding to start my project. Nothing could prepare me for my encounter with high quality black paint (or whatever it is).

I used a quart of "high quality" paint remover/stripper and could only remove the layers of paint applied by prior owners (very fast indeed) however, the factory black finish is yet another matter.

The stripper has not done anything to it, I've read of using steel wool with the stripper to get rid of it.

Does this work or, can I just skip this step and just go for the Lye/Easy Off to remove both the black paint and the anodizing?

HELP please, no more elbow grease left here........

Juan

There was a thread started just last week from someone who highly recommended using a wire brush attachment on a Dremel tool or a drill motor to get the finish off.

Better yet, save your elbow grease and ship your wheels to Al Reed. He does GREAT work.

:D

Scott

Juan - Are you polishing the spokes on late model wheels or just cleaning off the paint to respray?

I used 400 grit sand paper and less than one hour of sanding per wheel. Resprayed great with Wurth Matte Black. I had visions of polishing the spokes like the wheels on my 1969 but after another hour of using about 200 grit to remove the ridges/inperfections, I gave up. It would take 6-8 hour per wheel by hand! If AL REED was within driving distance - he would have had my wheels.

I remember polishing con rods/crankshafts using a rubber wheel - I wonder if this might work well?

I used a home sandblaster and new glass beads. The finish was smooth enough to to polish with a calico wheel and "white" compound on a drill.

It was Me! The factory paint will come off, BUT, you need a high strength stripper such as aircraft stripper and use repeatedly with a stiff wire brush. Forget about any milder stripper used in woodworking and such. I get this stuff from AutoZone. What needs to be done depends on what finish you desire. If your just repainting the centers all you need is to roughen up the centers of the factory paint and perhaps hit a few of the nicks with a filler/primer spray. Then repaint. If you going for the full polish, wire brushing the anodization off with dremel or drill will work. Bead or shell blasting is also a good way the remove the anodization. I've done the oven cleaner method and it takes too long and is too messy. What ever you do, just don't try to sand the anodization off by hand. You will be a cripple before too long.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/PB020459.JPG

Shown: 9" Fuchs finished by the above means. Insets left anodization on since I will be painting original color black and leaving petals buffed.

Guys,

I'm refinishing 3 sets of wheels, a set of deep 6's back to original (which will probably go to Al Reed), another set of deep 6's which I'll polish the spokes and do the background in hammertone gray (cheap way of achieving the rough anodize) and a set of modern style (black petals) 15x7 which I'll also finish polished with gray background. Both of these will go in the race car.

I have another set of 15x6 which I'll finish similarly later when its time to replace the (rain) tires.

I found a local anodizer today who'll remove all the anodizing and paint for $35 for 8 wheels, reanodizing is another matter ($35 each).

Thanks for the info on the stripper. Where do I get a home media blasting kit???

Thanks much guys, Juan

By the way, beatiful wheels, great job!!!

Yo, Fishcop!
 

Sorry to ressurect this, but...

Do you remember what kind of glass beads you used, John? I read in another thread that glass beading left an abrasive finish which required sanding before polishing.

My Summer/Christmas break project will be re-vitalizing the ratty ole Fuchs on my '76 and I'd love to have most of the info covered before I start.

Also, does anyone know what can be done about curb rash? I'm assuming that you can just sand it out?

All you have to do is use two cans of easy-off oven cleaner per set, no more finish.

Rash can be taken out with very fine files, and paper on hard blocks.



M