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First 3.2 oil change. Couple of questions.

1) Not intending to start an oil debate, but Brad Penn is semi-synth.
Is that considered ok? I thought synth was to be avoided.

I don't think Walmart or Autozone stocks the kind of oil we need. So, for ZDDP, Amazon sells:
a) 20W-50 Valvoline VR-1. 12 qts for $64.
b) 20W-50 Kendall GT-1. 12 qts for $50

Which would you choose?

2) I've read you should change the crush washers for both drain plugs. Are they both the same size? 22x27mm?
Our host does not sell 90012301120, which is for the oil tank drain plug. (Page 36 of the PET catalog)
But, it does sell the engine case drain plug (90012301130) (Page 16 of the PET catalog) Just get 2 of those?

3) I'll get a Mahle filter from Pelican.

Any other things to watch for ?

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Last edited by sugarwood; 05-03-2015 at 07:54 AM..
Old 05-03-2015, 07:42 AM
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As long as your engine does not have an existing leak, BP is fine.

Huh? Autozone and Oriely's both have the VR1, heck even some Pepboys. Walmart definitely does not I think you can special order it???

Yes, the crush washers are the same size, Torque 51ft lb on crank and 31ft lb on tank. Bolt is 15MM, it may be on pretty tight so use another box wrench to get leverage but make sure the 15MM wrench is squared up, the bolt is very soft.

Yes, Mahle is choice #1 alternative is Porsche of course or Mann. If your car does not have a high temp issue you can use the Wix/Napa Gold. Extreme filtration but a bit restrictive on the flow because of the high filtration system they designed.

If you drain after she is hot, you will need to fill 10.5 quarts, to be safe, put 9.5 and fill as needed after she is nice and hot at operating temps 194c or 1/2" above the 1st hash mark on temp gauge.

Jim

P.S. check the magnet for chunks of metal, a bit of shavings is expected but after the VR1 or BP it should be down to a minimum.
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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 05-03-2015 at 08:33 AM..
Old 05-03-2015, 08:19 AM
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It is highly worthwhile to take your sump cover off too. Clean and replace with new gasket.
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:29 AM
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He has a 3.2, no sump cover.
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:36 AM
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I have found valvoline vr1 all over the place, autozone, advance auto parts, o Reilly's, etc
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:19 PM
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While not addressing any of the questions you asked, you could also send a sample of your oil off for analysis. Here's a link to Blackstone Labs, which charges $25.

http://m.blackstone-labs.com/OrderTestKit
Old 05-03-2015, 12:48 PM
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$64 for 12 qts of VR1 is a good price. At the local Advance Auto Parts it is $5.99 a quart.

Still cheaper than the Mobil 1 my other cars get.

Make sure you get a deep oil pan for when you drain the oil tank -- as everyone will attest, it comes out quick -- and will quickly overwhelm one of the plastic tubs with the twist drain in the center.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:25 PM
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Right, so it will just splash right out of one of these?
I was thinking of using a bucket, depending on the jack stand height.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:51 PM
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Anyone know of an alternate source for the 22x27x1.5mm washers (90012301130)?
Shipping is $10 for $1 worth of washers. Dealer is like 25 mins. away.
Autozone seems to charge $10 for a single washer.
Is this something a hardware store carries?
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:28 PM
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If you just use a short plastic oil catch pan you do not need to raise the car though it make torqueing the crank much easier. Then pour into empty bottles or large radiator bottle to take to FLAPS for dumping.



Here is a our Lady Member doing her own oil change:

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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 05-03-2015 at 02:31 PM..
Old 05-03-2015, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Anyone know of an alternate source for the 22x27x1.5mm washers (90012301130)?
Shipping is $10 for $1 worth of washers. Dealer is like 25 mins. away.
Autozone seems to charge $10 for a single washer.
Is this something a hardware store carries?
Nope, go to an indy Porsche shop, I bet they will sell you couple.

Next Pelican order, order a dozen, you will always need them. You can try to re-use them but after 2nd time they will leak. Make sure you put it back the way you removed them or it will definitely leak.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:34 PM
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Sugarwood, you could always sand the washers rough for now and reuse them until your next big order from Pelican. I have heard of others doing that in a pinch.

I have the oil pan you showed and it didn't work out well for me. I had to go out and get draco's type. The oil from the oil tank came out way fast and splashed all over the place. I think its because the oil from the tank drains straight down instead of horizontally like water cooled cars do. Might want to get one of those big metal oil trays to put underneath just in case. Then you can keep that under the car when you aren't driving it, to see how much oil you are leaking out between drives.

Have fun and prepare to be baptized. :-). After you do it shout from the rooftops like I did: "I JUST CHANGED THE OIL IN A PORSCHE!!!"
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franks89-911 View Post
Sugarwood, you could always sand the washers rough for now and reuse them until your next big order from Pelican. I have heard of others doing that in a pinch.

. . .
The problem with reusing the washers isn't the surface texture. The problem is they are work hardened.
You can reuse a washer in a pinch if you anneal it with a torch. Hard to do without snapping your fingers and getting an aluminum puddle.

To anneal aluminum you heat it to just below melting and quick drop it into water. Clean it well then put it on a round shafted screw driver and rotate it while heating. If you watch it carefully you can see the corners change. Dunk it in water instantly. Aluminum gives VERY little warning before melting. (Expect all first attempts to melt. It is a fun thing to try before tossing an old washer.)


Most metals anneal in the same basic fashion. Steel is the big "odd man out". It hardens when quenched.
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:03 AM
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I rarely post, but read the site daily. Take the advice above and keep in mind the oil comes out fast! Like an un-stoppable, broom stick size tube of hot oil that will cover your floor.

**I used the first type of drain pan shown above. I don't know if my wife was happier that I created a big stain on our new garage floor - or that she got to smell it for the next two weeks!
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Right, so it will just splash right out of one of these?
I was thinking of using a bucket, depending on the jack stand height.
If you use one of these, cut out the plug in the middle so the drain hole is 2" or so. There is a good chance it will overflow otherwise.

My two cents: Any of those three oils are fine, and it's not the end of the world if you reuse the aluminum washer.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:55 AM
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I ended up ordering the 22x27 washers from Pelican.
When I tried to order 2 washers, shipping was $10.
When I tried to order 12 washers (25 cents each), shipping was $4.

I did the oil change today.
I jacked the car up a few inches.

I would not use that flat round container pictured above.

For the oil tank plug, I used a $1 flexible cutting board to deflect the stream into a bucket
This worked perfectly.


Feeling oh so clever, I moved onto the crankcase plug.
I set up the bucket and cutting board and the stream just smashed off the vertical board.
I did not anticipate the stream coming out sideways as forcefully as it did.
(It would almost shoot past your tire, if unobstructed.)


Next time, I will angle the cutting board even more as a shroud to surround the fill plug,
and deflect everything into the bucket.


PS: Hey Frank, "I JUST CHANGED THE OIL IN A PORSCHE!!!"
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Last edited by sugarwood; 05-15-2015 at 05:40 PM..
Old 05-15-2015, 04:35 PM
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You don't need a bucket and you don't need to jack up the car. I use an oil change catch container I bought at Autozone. Low and wide and with a very large opening. Slides right under the car with no jacking and never comes close to overflow and never any splash. Dump oil into 5 gal container for disposal.
Valvoline VR-1 Racing from O'Reilly's is often on sale.
Mahle filter. Never, not ever, overtighten the oil filter. Hand tight will do it.
I have reused the alum washers when I didn't have new ones available without leaks.
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:03 AM
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Just try not to drop the oil plugs. In a bucket it is a big pain to search for it. Using what sugarwood suggested, it is easy to pick it up when you do drop it. Also make sure you open the vent on this kind of pan or you will see it fill and eventually spill over.
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:34 AM
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Why would you send an oil sample to Blackstone? It's just an oil change. If I sent a sample in from my 85 they would say "yup, that is from a 30 year old 3.2!" Remember how nasty the oil looked when it came out of say a 65 bug!! Those were the days!
Old 05-16-2015, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
"I JUST CHANGED THE OIL IN A PORSCHE!!!"
Congrats! You are no longer a DIY 911 Virgin this is the true entry to the Fellowship of 911. Who Hoo!

Now go drive her like you stole her

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Old 05-16-2015, 10:35 AM
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