That's because it takes time to warm up, maybe 3-5 mins before it has any influence on the mixture. Therefore it has no function when starting.

Fair point but I think people get overly worked up about playing around with the mixture. If a car was starting and idling correctly (we don't know when that situation existed for this car so it may be that the PO had been messing around with the mixture) and the next day you went to start it and it wouldn't idle, I'd tend to think it's a mechanical or electrical component failure not something going out of adjustment. Besides, if it's not the cube relay, keep it as a spare.

+1

Given a better description of symptoms, O2 sensor, O2 relay or both unplugged will not cause the engine to die. If any of these are an issue, they are secondary.

Smarter guys than me are suggesting lean so give the 3m screw some CW attention.

I wanted to be clear, I have not unplugged the sensor just the relay. Should I go unplug the sensor and relay?

I have also played with the mixture screw with the relay unplugged. I went 1/2 turn CW and black smoke started the come out the tail pipe but it would start and immediately die. I then reverted it back 1/4 CCW and still black smoke, start and die, then another 1/4 CCW and the black smoke went away but it still started and died. I think I am at the top end of rich right now.

You are GenX. I am an early-ish baby boomer. Pretend I am your Dad. Just for sport.

Dad says slow the eff down.

Do you need the car to go to Best Buy to buy a gizmo? I didn't think so. Slow down.

Eff the relay and O2 sensor. You are not there yet. Your car can't even run.

Given the CW turn of the 3mm screw is not the answer you need to get really fundamental.

Explain exactly how the car ran when you first received it. Step one.

Full disclosure son (even though you are probably in your 40's):D

Below is from your first post. So the car did "kind of" run?

Mixture screw was screwed clockwise "a lot"
Idle air bypass screw was screwed almost all the way in
CCP is low even at the 2nd figure you provided (1.9 @ 20.7C) - see graph

All three of these are set to deliver a more fuel/less air than is normally required. I am guessing vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem.

Given your cold start valve is working and car fires, you can get six baby food jars and put your injector tips in them and lift the air sensor. Eyeball the flow and check for consistency. Not a perfect test but if they are close in intensity - and spray looks healthy - and fill jars evenly across time you probably do not have a fuel issue.

However, you don't mention system pressure. Something like the fuel filter could restrict flow.

Here is the graph and the red dot is where you say the CCP is. That means rich as the plunger in the fuel distributor does not have to fight as hard to allow more fuel in. (81 - 83 US use same WUR)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433009594.jpg

Possible given the car runs some with the relay holes jumpered. (well it did)

What about borrowing one of the black relays in place of the red one?

Pulling off the air sensor switch plug as t77 suggested isolates that variable.

So I have more data. I agree Bob, it is time to slow down but if you continue reading I have been tweaking. The car came to me in the morning and it started as the guy pulled it off of the trailer it two started in two tries. I then went inspecting the car for a couple of hours with doors/trunk/decklid open which consequently killed the battery, the battery was connected for the entire trip on the trailer. I then put another battery in and started the car. We went for a drive but the power felt down at upper limit RPMs. Then I was working on the car and the battery died again. Since then I had an issue starting the car, the behavior described in this post.

At that point I checked the WUR system, cold and warm pressure. I got 5.1 bar for system, .93 bar cold, and 3.44 bar warm on the first test. I then went to adjusting the WUR because it was low. I ended up after adjustement yesterday with temp at 20.7c , cold 1.9 bar with system and warm 3.44 bar. Now I thought that it was perfect right in the range... before I saw the chart you posted above. I was working off this chart.

http://jimsbasementworkshop.com/CIS/..._089_specs.jpg

My chart is different from yours which really has me questioning the setup. Specifically I was leery of my warm temp which happens to be right in the butter zone of your chart and off my chart.

Now here is the strange part. Yesterday at 6pm I was doing leak down tests of the fuel system. I did it with the gauges in places, once with the valve closed and once with the valve open. Valve closed 10 min 1.65 bar, 20 min 1.55 bar. Valve open 10 min 1.34 bar, 20 min .65 bar. I am not sure if that specifically means the check valve vs the accumulator is the problem but I am having an issue with leak down.

But after the test I tried to start the car and it fired right up. It ran great, I did a little tuning with the mixture and idle, but it was running strong. I came out this morning and started it right up again after two cranks. Ran great again. This time I checked timing, which was perfect, then replaced the cap and rotor, started it again and it ran great. We then had to do some errands and I came back this afternoon with the intent of taking it for a drive... Won't start worth a damn. Same problem, crank and dies.

Now I am thinking I need to work off the chart you provided and adjust the WUR pressure in your chart. I am also going to report back tomorrow morning when I am going to try and start the car. That sound like a good plan? I am also going to need your address Bob... you got a bottle of tequila and a cigar heading your way for getting me through this.

Your graph is the graph for the Rest of World SC's. They run richer.

You can confirm by snooping around your WUR for a Bosch number that ends in 090. 089 is the RoW WUR.

Yes, you have a residual pressure issue. It is not the "big" issue but it is an issue. Today it may have been if it was hot in CA.

Cripes, don't say check valve in the accumulator around boyt911sc. It's sort of a spring diaphragm that pushes down on the fuel after you shut the car off. I just learned this a few weeks ago after Tony administered a verbal tune up. The system does not "hold" residual pressure. The system receives residual pressure from this spring pushing down on the fuel. There are check valves but not in the accumulator.

Also, all you need is one injector dripping to taper off residual pressure. I don't think it's worth worrying about right now as you go through trouble shooting. As long as you restart within a few minutes when warm, you should be able to get it started.

You have a leak downstream now that I read this. Guessing an injector. It may even be in your connections with the fuel pressure gauges.

Updates: So I adjusted my cold pressure to 2.27 bar @ 22.6c. Car started right up and idled great. My buddy and I took it around the block... then promptly took it for a walk home a block and a half away from the house. After it was home we tried starting it and it would go for a second then die. I then jumpered the fuel pump relay. Car started right up and idled great. Put the relay back in, car wouldn't start. I got a new relay, put that in, car wouldn't start. Jumpered the fuel pump relay, car started right up and idled great. I am going to do some research but it feels like it is the component that tells the fuel pump to run is going awry. Any ideas where to look?

Based on your having to bypass the relay:
Disconnect the plug directly behind the air metering plate. Also known as the fuel pump safety switch, and see if it starts and runs correctly. There may be an intermittent short in the switch or in the wiring within the engine harness that is grounding out the fuel pump when running causing it to cut out.

If the problem goes away you have found the cause.

I believe I have solved the problem. This morning the symptoms were the same start then immediately die. I jumpered the relay, works fine. Plugged the relay back in and unplugged the sensor behind the air metering plate, car would start and die. Plugged it back in and then went and unplugged the rev limiter box that is right behind the fuel gauge. Car started right up and ran awesome. Did some other unrelated projects. Started it up and went for a drive and everything was smooth. I am not sure if there is repairing this box or just replacing but it was obvious that it was cutting out the fuel at incorrect times. I am stoked that I can finally drive the car I bought.

In the end it is obvious that my wur was grossly incorrect but with that sorted out there was still a problem. Thanks to everyone that helped me get through this.

Good find!

Outstanding job. Plus you now know after a few weeks what I knew after a few years with the help of the guys here.

May have been as simple as some corrosion on the sensor plate switch.

I am going to look into that switch. It has been explained a million times, I just forget. It either creates a ground or eliminates a ground so the red relay can work. Don't understand fully how the kill-switch works.

Just keep that tequila on the shelf for if I ever get out your way. :-)

Beer = Good - only make an ass of myself
Booze/wine = Great - Prove beyond a shadow of a doubt I am a drunken idiot.