Help with Charging problem
 

Hi forum members. New to this forum. I have a 1987 carrera that continues to leave me stranded as a result of ignition problems. My questions may be stupid, but I'm trying to trouble shoot this on my own and I'm not the most competent when it comes to electrical issues.

The principal problem is that whenever the battery's voltage drops below 12.5 volts, I just get a click when I turn the ignition to start. It literally takes almost no additional voltage applied at the terminal to get the engine cranking, but zero action by the starter solenoid at less that 12.5 volts. Is this normal?

As you can imagine, being an occasional car, it is not hard for the voltage to drop below 12.5 volts, so I pretty much get stranded whenever I stop the car for more than 8-10 hours.

I do think I have a parasitic drain somewhere in the system, as I have seen 8-9 milliamp draw at the battery, where I think 2 may be normal. But, when I go through removing the fuses in the front trunk and in the engine compartment, I see no drop in the draw. What am I missing there?

All advices appreciated.

Is the "click" the starter relay in front or the solenoid?

If the solenoid then the extra voltage is required to drive the solenoid plunger all the way "home", far enough to close the contacts to power the starter.

In the meantime...

You might need to clean/burnish the battery posts and the inside of the battery connections.

It might also help to remove the battery chassis ground and clean/burnish both surfaces.

If that doesn't do the trick then the same with battery connection at the starter solenoid.

Fuses.
 

Fusing was not Porsche' finest hour on the 3.2 cars.

As there are several un-fused items such as the A/C front condenser blower, evaporator motor, dash lights, ect............

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433014571.jpg
^^^^^
Here is a page that may help.
The 8-9 mil draw is a bit surprising, but have a look at the meter connections & settings.

pm me as needed.

Good luck,

Gerry

How old is your battery and do you put a trickle charger on it when parked for a week or more without a good run?
Power window option to operate it after turning off the car can hang up and cause a larger draw.

8 milli amps is nothing. A fully charged battery is 12.6 volts. I don't think you have a charging problem

Thanks for all the replies. So if an 8 milliamp draw is not my problem, why would I get no turnover at the starter with 12.4 volts, but with a slight jump it turnover?

Timmy2, I might have an issue with the door switch. How does one check it? How is it removed from the door jam? Thanks in advance.

You have been given good advice: check your connections at the battery, the ground strap, both in the battery box and under the car between the transaxle and the body. A corroded or dirty connection is common in an infrequently driven car. The oxidation prevents good current transfer and may be so thin that it is nearly invisible. Each connection should be wire brushed or sanded then reconnected with protective coating such as dielectric grease which helps prevent further oxidation at the connection.

Not that this is the answer to your problem but if the car that you use to jump it is running the system voltage is probably about 13.5.

when you turn the key to start what is the voltage on the yellow wire at the starter? If you tap on the starter solenoid does it make a difference?

Did you read that 8 milli Amps correctly? Isn't it more like 80?