No, that trick is done in "loosen mode", but it's hard to take a pic the other way 'round.

That is what I do, and I posted in the previous tips and tricks thread.

"how in the world did you get the pin and clip back in after you removed them to replace the hydraulic rod with the neat mechanical ones we all bought? My hands and fingers can't get around the wiring down there on the drivers side to push the clip on.... thanks for reading."

Just use a short (I think 10mm) bolt. The threads and tension keep the sucker in place for at least ten years in my experience -- no problems yet. Used hemostat like pliers and dental floss to recover the bolt if it slips. I believe I got the idea from Pelican.

I used a pillow to kneel down. My config has a nut/bolt, so it was pretty simple to access.

I was replacing the fuel line/filter on my Stihl 036 last night. The replacement came from a shop in Florida and upon comparison, the new line required a larger hole in the fuel tank ; a 1/8" more in diameter to be exact. The tank is hard plastic and had to be drilled from the outside. I dipped the drill bit tip in grease to catch the chips as the cut proceeded. Also set an oil soaked rag inside the tank partially to catch any that snuck by the grease trap. Grease trick worked well enough that I couldn't find a single particle on the rag or in the tank.

My best tip? My creeper make a great cot for a nap when I'm under the coolness of my Porsche.

I'll add something so basic that I overlooked it for many years. 4 lb hammer. I wanted to tap out the brake pad pins, and finally got to use my heavy hammer. There was limited swing clearance, so the extra mass made it perfect compared to using a nail hammer. When you need a heavy hammer with limited swing arc to build momentum, the BFH has no substitute. I barely moved the hammer and it carried a lot of force.

That is not much fun!! I love doing my own work......and becoming an expert in the things I choose.

Starter Removal and Install. 20 minutes.

Chock the front wheels, put in neutral, raise the rear on jack stands, from the bottom on a creeper reach in from the driver side over the gear box to access the mounting 10MM barrel nut ( 3.2 ). 33ft lbs

If you have Hi-Torque Starter, the same process to get to the Positive 12MM connector. 7.5 ft lbs.

I can't believe how many times I'm been laying on the garage floor after working on the engine for a few hours and end up falling dead asleep for a while right under the car...

My garage can sometimes be the most peaceful place in the house. Sometimes. Sometimes it's filled with oil and blood and swearing.

Bit of rubber glove or shop rag jammed in a socket with a bolt or nut is a great way to secure the bolt/nut during install.

^^^ +1, I take cat naps under her too :D

There were quite a few nights when I was rebuilding the engine that involved a few hours of low end manual labor...scraping, cleaning, wiping and drinkin'. Those often ended with me slumped over in the chair...cause of the drinkin' and all...

Blue paper towels.

The biggest tip I can offer is to check out your local pawn shop. I've scored so many Snap On bits that I've lost count. Dozens of extensions, ratchets, socket sets, and specialty tools that my box is overflowing with Snap On goodness. I have drawers and drawers filled with everything from SO compression testers, strut compressors, speed wrenches, boroscope, etc.... All at 60-75% off truck price. Just picked up a $99 pyrometer for $20. A half dozen of my socket sets were $60 each, not the $300 the truck wants.....some still in the original shrink wrap packaging and magnetic holders. Does a shade tree do it yourselfer need Snap On? No? Want to bet? :p

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1463068559.jpg

Put a 1/4" hose on the end of a spark plug to start the threads then torc the plug with a socket

I usually ask my wife to come check on me when I will be working under the car.
Reason #1: make sure nothing went wrong and I am pinned under the car.
Reason #2: wake me up if I fell asleep on that comfy moving blanket I spread under the car...:D

I also use (sparingly) grease for that.;)

My garage is detached and WiFi for the house doesn't quite reach. The kitchen is the midway point between garage and router. I had a spare router that I re-flashed with DD-WRT firmware and set as a repeater in the kitchen. Now there's nearly full strength WiFi in the garage. Considering the spare router had no appreciable resale value, this was a useful and virtually free trick.

Yarp me too, but now I got a oily iPad...any tips for that?

Stomski racing - specialized engine assembly tools.
That is one clever hombre....

Careful there. My general rule of thumb when doing brakes is that if you need to force it, you're doing it wrong. These are precision parts. My go-to tool on brake pad change would be the caliper spreader, and the very thin steel punch that fits right into the pin hole. It takes only a light tap to get the pins free.

Yes, I only did a light tap on the pin. Instantly came out.

Knipex pliers. I don't know how I made it this far without them.

What are some situations you've needed the Knipex?
Which kind are most applicable to 911 work?
7" or 10" ? Cobra or regular?

I have 4 knipex pliers
The needlenose and the side cutters aren't anything revolutionary, just well made and precise tools.

The 180mm and 250mm alligator pliers are very helpful on cars, around the house etc.
I don't have a 911 so I can't speak to anything more particular than the shared systems with my 912E. For instance on a brake pad change once you have it jacked up and the wheel off you can use the pliers to pull the safety clips off, the pins out, the pads out, compress the Pistons and then put it back together with just the pliers.

The jaws have different sections for fine work, nuts and shafts. They only need pressure on one of the 2 handles to close as long as you're turning it in the right direction. A lot of people don't seem to understand how the pliers are meant to works and don't like them but once I figured it out I sent my old pliers to my brother.

Depends what you're trying to do, of course. The regular Knipex provides a lot of force on two parallel toothless jaws. One way I use them is as a crescent wrench replacement. Another is straightening things that should be flat. Great tool, great quality.

All kinds of tips and tricks on my Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNCaiQ2YYVJOUVHL59EmVBQ

This channel created as a way to give back to the community. This is a good chance to say many thanks to all who have given me advice when needed. Giving back is important. We all have something to contribute.

A local bridge - narrow with cement/steel barrier walls which reflect sounds...is great to drive through with windows open to listen to whatever my 85.5 944 needs to tell me.

Thank you Dr DYI!

I've been subscribed to your YouTube channel for a while and it is fabulous.

Cheers,
Sal

This weekend I was changing fluids on another car.
I was rethreading the drain plug right over the full drain bucket.
I moved the bucket.

For another situation, I held a rag under the bolt I was threading, in case I dropped it.

Slowly, I am showing hints of experience.

Relax on Cam Timing, it does not have to be matching on both sides :D

Just within Spec like Stomski's 1.10 & 1.26

https://image.prntscr.com/image/N6YP...uFg6Vi-rJA.png

Replaced the crank sensor on my DD today.

Read a few posts where it was described as very difficult to screw back into place.
Saw a video where the guy was jamming his had down into the cavity to remove it

Minor example of experience working in my favor.

See the thread hole in the bottom of the cavity?
That’s where the sensor I am holding screws into.

For removal, I used a long extension bar snaked thru the 2 throttle cables,
instead of working down in the cavity.

See the sensor? One end is bolted down, the other has a wire harness clip.
Instinct is to first unclip a part, and then unbolt it it.
But there was no play in the wire, and it’s down in a cavity.
It would have been a PITA to unclip the harness while the sensor was still installed.
So, I removed the sensor first, fished it out,
and then unclipped the wire (with much more play, as seen in pic)

I read some post where a guy said it took him an hour to rethread the sensor.
He prob. was trying to stick his hand down in the cavity.
I used the extension bar to rethread the bolt
(and used a scrap of paper to friction hold the bolt into the socket)
Took 10 seconds to rethread the sensor.