Replacing Green Distributor Cable

[gblumenstock]

"So my green wire is not the "pig tail" kind. The green wire goes from the distributor into the engine wiring harness with no additional connector. So is there good way to replace my green wire without replacing the whole wiring harness? Permatune sells a replacement wiring harness, but that costs more than $100. Also, do you know if I would have to take the distributor apart to connect the green wire, or does the green wire simply plug into distributor.

Thanks for the help!

-Juan"

Here is a question from a previous thread. I have looked through the archives and found mention of replacing the green wire to the distributor but no details on how it should be done correctly.

I just cleaned up my distributor (disassembled and cleaned), replaced the vacuum unit and reset the timing on my car. I had intended to replace my frayed green wire and brittle connector with a new one from our host. My replacement has a new connector on the end that comes directly from the harness. (meaning there is no place to plug it in) Is there another connector needed/available to complete the job right? Do I just splice it into the harness?

Any help appreciated. I am betting that most of the SCs will be having this problem.

GB

[Superman]

Check the other thread.

[gblumenstock]

No, you will not have to do any wiring inside the distributor. The green wire (and also the pigtail replacement) just plugs into the side of the distributor. Original factory wiring connects the CDI unit to the distributor with a green coaxial wire. It's best to just replace the entire green wire, which means the whole wire that goes between the distributor and the CDI unit. It's surgery, but it's minor surgery.

There is a special tool (you can sometimes use a small piece of wire) that pushes down on the locking tab enabling you to neatly remove the 1/4" female spade connector from the rectangular, 6-pin block connector at the CDI unit. Unfortunately, I know of no source for replacement female 1/4" connectors that have the locking tab.

It's no more than a six-pack job, if you have the parts. You'll need wire (that can handle heat.....the factory green one cannot) the pigtail and one of those really really common Bosch 2-pin rectangular connectors. Like the one on the WUR or the AAR, or the cold start valve, or the........ They are sold separately, and you need it to connect with the pigtail.


__________________
'83 SC



Thanks Superman. Here is his response on the old thread.

So you are saying to replace the entire green wire. Does anyone have a good source for heat resistant coax that is suitable for this application? I was planning on resusing the old green wire with new shrink tubing and just splicing in a mate to the replacement pigtail connector. That way, I keep the harness intact and get a new connector to plug into the distributor.
GB

[boyt911sc]

GB,
I replaced the green wire from distributor by unplugging the old one and plugging the new one (got from Pelican). This was for a '78SC and the wire was about 6 or 7 inches long.

Hope we have the same wiring.

[Early_S_Man]

There are several types of high-temperature 200°C rated military-grade Teflon-insulated coax that would be suitable as a replacement for the crack-prone green coax on Turbos and SC's! Several grades are in the jacket O.D. range of 0.071" to 0.113" ... RG-178, RG-179, RG-187, RG-188, RG-196, and RG-316. Belden #83265 (RG-188B/U) is probably the least expensive of the bunch, at around $70 per 100' roll from Allied Electronics.

http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.asp?FN=380.pdf