Paint Gun/Compressor Recommendations

FA-18C · 11-13-2002, 09:20 AM

Well, as long as I'm going to paint my front bumper, stands to reason I should do the rear, and the license panel. I will draw the line there though. I have wanted to get a compressor for some time, so now is as good a time as any. I move a lot so am leaning towards a 30ish gallon tank, what other attributes are important, and suggestions for a paint gun and anything else I need is appreciated. Lastly, am thinking of picking up one of these 100 buck blast cabinets, is that a waste of money?
Thanks!

Rot 911 · 11-13-2002, 09:32 AM

For a sand blaster you will need air and lots of it! Same with an air grinder. For a paint job you can get by with the 6hp oilless 30 gallon Sears or generic compressor, which is what i did at first. After a couple of years I got sick of the noise and the constant running. Think of this as a purchase that you want to be happy with for the next 20 years. I stepped up to a 2 stage oil lubricated compressor with an 80 gallon tank. Get a decent oil and water filter for it. Really doesn't take up much more room and is worth every penny I paid for it. As for a gun, I use a Devilbis HVLP that I got thru Harbor Freight for around $120.00. No complaints.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Although you could get by with a small unit, generally the bigger the air tank and the higher the CRM's the better. Everything you want to know can be found here . I spent about two days ready all the posts and left with more information than i will ever need.

GeorgeM · GeorgeM's Garage

Chris,

I decided that I wanted one, but since I only use it for air tools and the occasional paint job, I didn't think it was worth spending a bunch of cash for a monster one.

I got a Porter Cable (made by Devilbiss) at Home Depot for about $250. Its an upright 25 gallon/135psi/6HP that is rated at 8.3CFM/40PSI and 5.8CFM/90PSI.

I have found that it's adequate for everything I do except grinding. If you use a grinder all the time, you'll want one with more capacity.

RickM · RickM's Garage

Looks like all good advice. I'd like to add:
Ask as many questions as tolerable at your paint supply store. You should understand the traits of the chemicals you'll be using. What works with what, enamels, urethanes, laquers , water base primers, multi part (stage) paints etc. I believe you can spray laquer over a factory baked enamel but typically not over a "non baked" finish. There are also chemical additives (or thinners/reducers) for situations such as high humidity, low temperature, fisheye etc.
The single most important factor to a successfull paint job is preparation. From stripping wax & repairing to sanding & priming(and sanding) then using a tack rag for dust/lint. Remember, what you see on your prepped piece will be seen after the paint goes on...the paint wont hide any imperfections. More than likely it will magnify them.
Where you paint must be very clean and well ventilated. The last thing you want is to start painting and the air pressure from the gun starts to kick up dust....just to wreck your piece. Also, airborne dust/hair/debri can wreck you day before, during or after the paint goes on....so ventilation is needed but it must be filtered or at least controlled.
My success with HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) guns is mixed. When switching from a standard gun you'll have to adjust to a thicker coat going on. I find feathering a bit harder. But this may be unique to me as I have an early "all in one" HVLP unit.

On the sandblaster if you can swing a pressure unit go for it. Siphon units can be a pain. But there's nothing like refinishing a freshly blasted piece.

Hope this helps and Good Luck.

Good luck.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

Regarding the compressor:

Size matters. Get the biggest one you can get away with in terms of your service drop, your budget, and your wife. Stay away from oilless - they're a noisy waste of money. Put it outside the garage if you can, build a shed around it, and plumb the line thru the wall. You won't regret it.

Regarding the paint gun:

Stick to name brands. I have a Devilbiss gravity-feed HVLP that I got @ Harbor Fright [sic] for $180. It's no Binks, but it's pretty nice.

RoninLB · 11-13-2002, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FA-18C
[I have wanted to get a compressor for some time, so now is as good a time as any. I move a lot so am leaning towards a 30ish gallon tankThanks!
[/B]

logically writing, 30gal is good for a touch up gun..Kurt has a great set up... and if it was my problem, had to be mobile, easy to ship..for small quick jobs I would spend my $$ on a good gun..and then get an old SCUBA regulator, cut off the 2nd stage, insert an adjustable regulator, and rent a tank for the day, or borrow a friends..no need for a moisture/filter w/SCUBA air..just a thought.........Ron

FA-18C · 11-13-2002, 06:51 PM

Thanks for the input guys! God I love this country. Based on all the info, my tentative plan is a 5-6 HP 30 gallon craftsman compressor 150psi. Will shoot for a DeVilbiss or Binks HVLP gun in the mid range. (Not planning on bead blasting a chasis or painting the whole car, remember, just painting bumpers, door jambs etc....) As for a blast cabinet, I think I am gong to go for one of the bench top units, they look like about 100 bucks on Ebay, similar to the unit for 229 at eastwoods. Mainly intended for cleaning up 30 year old parts for painting and reinstall.
Again, thanks for the help.
Now then anyone got any good shots of their S bumpers as far as fender fit? Appreciate anything.

R/
Boog