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Improving a '74 911

I'm taking my dad's 911 over to Munk's Motors(Porsche/Bosch Mechanic) Wednesday for a stuck heater box and a non-closing engine lid; I'll be able to go under the car for the first time and work with the mechanics there to learn a thing or two about these cars!

And that got me thinking if there was anything else with the car I could fix, improve, replace, or upgrade to make the car better, safer, just better than it originally was, if that's possible. So I've begun compiling a list of small things I know I can do for the time being. Daniel911T has also helped me as well with some important parts to look at as well:

1. H4 Headlamps
2. Turbo Tie-rods
3. Adding a fuse for the instrument lights

This is what I've added to my project list.(that I can actually do)

1. Fix whatever is making it run lean
2. Replace all light bulbs
3. Buying the 101 Projects book
4. Adding Euro-style amber taillights(because they look awesome)

I'm not sure any substantial upgrades have been done to the car prior to my making this list, putting it on a lift Wednesday will definitely tell me more about it than I already know. But do tell me, are there any serious things that should be considered or looked at?

Old 05-24-2014, 07:41 AM
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Do you know if the valves have been checked lately? It's nice to do that under a lift rather than crawl underneath the car several times. It could have something to do with the lean issue. Does the car have the stock CIS system?

Also, it's a good time to check your suspension bushings all around.
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:10 AM
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Have your mechanic check to see if case inserts have been added to the engine as pulled studs was one of the major issues with the 2.7 engine. If inserts haven't been added, that is something you should consider to insure the engine is more reliable. Additionally, have him check the chain tensioners. If they are original, you may consider adding carrera style pressure fed tensioners, possibly new tensioners, or, at least, safety collars to prevent collapse of those you have.

Your lean running condition may be remedied by simply adjustment of the warm up regulator or by fixing a vacuum leak in the CIS. Have your mechanic run a fuel pressure check (if not already scheduled) and have him check for air leaks, then get his opinion of the results. The 74 has a very basic CIS compared to later cars so, essentially, there are fewer components to cause problems. Good luck, and keep us informed on your progress.
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgyglfr View Post
Do you know if the valves have been checked lately? It's nice to do that under a lift rather than crawl underneath the car several times. It could have something to do with the lean issue. Does the car have the stock CIS system?

Also, it's a good time to check your suspension bushings all around.
I'm sure it has the Stock CIS, no Webbers or anything of the sorts. My dad always tells me that the car is original/stock.
Old 05-24-2014, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ossiblue View Post
Have your mechanic check to see if case inserts have been added to the engine as pulled studs was one of the major issues with the 2.7 engine. If inserts haven't been added, that is something you should consider to insure the engine is more reliable. Additionally, have him check the chain tensioners. If they are original, you may consider adding carrera style pressure fed tensioners, possibly new tensioners, or, at least, safety collars to prevent collapse of those you have.

Your lean running condition may be remedied by simply adjustment of the warm up regulator or by fixing a vacuum leak in the CIS. Have your mechanic run a fuel pressure check (if not already scheduled) and have him check for air leaks, then get his opinion of the results. The 74 has a very basic CIS compared to later cars so, essentially, there are fewer components to cause problems. Good luck, and keep us informed on your progress.
That's what I was thinking in the winter, that it was the WUR or a vacuum leak. When I take it over there, they'll do a test drive and safety check, check tire pressure and fluids, and the belts will be checked visually. I'll ask if they can do a little more if they find anything but I'm on a budget sadly.

I'll be keeping you all informed for sure!
Old 05-24-2014, 08:53 AM
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You didn't mention anything about the history or condition of the '74, how long your dad has owned it etc. but things you should certainly check if you don't know their condition is the rubber fuel lines, brake lines, suspension bushings, ball joints etc. - those things that relate to the safety of driving the car. When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed? Brake pads OK? How are the calipers?

Turbo tie-rods? are your current tie rods worn out? Turbos are nice to have but certainly not necessary.

H4s? have you added the relay for the headlights?

Buying Wayne's 101 Projects is definitely a must on your list.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 74-911 View Post
You didn't mention anything about the history or condition of the '74, how long your dad has owned it etc. but things you should certainly check if you don't know their condition is the rubber fuel lines, brake lines, suspension bushings, ball joints etc. - those things that relate to the safety of driving the car. When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed? Brake pads OK? How are the calipers?

Turbo tie-rods? are your current tie rods worn out? Turbos are nice to have but certainly not necessary.

H4s? have you added the relay for the headlights?

Buying Wayne's 101 Projects is definitely a must on your list.
He bought it new in '75, I don't know much about the wear parts, rubber parts, suspension ect.

I don't know much of the work that has been done to it unfortunately, I'll be able to say much more after Wednesday.
Old 05-24-2014, 09:14 AM
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Do not start replacing CIS parts until you've verified that there are no vacuum leaks. More than half of the problems associated with CIS are leaks.
You don't say if your car is an S or not, and if it has an external (trombone) oil cooler or AC. If AC, get rid of it, and if no cooler add one. Head studs are a must (certs) and if the suspension is original it will need all the bushings replaced. CV's will be due for a re-pack, and all the soft brake lines will need replacing along with a brake flush and probably calipers re-built. Make it stop before you make it go...
Read the thread in my signature below for what I did to mine.
-C
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Last edited by Charles Freeborn; 05-24-2014 at 10:51 AM..
Old 05-24-2014, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Charles Freeborn View Post
Do not start replacing CIS parts until you've verified that there are no vacuum leaks. More than half of the problems associated with CIS are leaks.
You don't say if your car is an S or not, and if it has an external (trombone) oil cooler or AC. If AC, get rid of it, and if no cooler add one. Head studs are a must (certs) and if the suspension is original it will need all the bushings replaced. CV's will be due for a re-pack, and all the soft brake lines will need replacing along with a brake flush and probably calipers re-built. Make it stop before you make it go...
Read the thread in my signature below for what I did to mine.
-C
It's just a regular 911 coupe, not an S or Carrera. The brakes didn't feel all that great to me now that you mention it, but I assumed that was because I was used to modern ABS and braking whatnot.
Old 05-24-2014, 10:55 AM
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PMB for the caliper rebuild and our host here Pelican has all the brake lines and master cyl.
No point in putting turbo ties on if the bushings are all original. It's a big job, but the car will handle like new. If it's not an S it probably doesn't have an oil cooler or Bilstein struts. IMHO it's not worth putting a ton of money into a standard car. The engine is lower power than an S too, so not much to do there short of 10's of thousands of $.
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles Freeborn View Post
PMB for the caliper rebuild and our host here Pelican has all the brake lines and master cyl.
No point in putting turbo ties on if the bushings are all original. It's a big job, but the car will handle like new. If it's not an S it probably doesn't have an oil cooler or Bilstein struts. IMHO it's not worth putting a ton of money into a standard car. The engine is lower power than an S too, so not much to do there short of 10's of thousands of $.
Well then what would you suggest to put into it then? It's going to be 5+ years before I can actually afford to buy my own, and I love my dad's so much; I just want to improve it little by little to make it better than stock. It's already got a decent motor for what it is and it doesn't need anymore power IMO. I'm just worried about upkeep, suspension, electrics and lighting, and other small things. Any 911 is a special 911 to me, even and especially this one.
Old 05-24-2014, 12:24 PM
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101 projects as mentioned.


First up I would tackle some of the electrical projects to beef things up, like adding relays to the headlight (before upgrading the headlights).

Also, replace old rubber fuel lines (and while at it go with ones rated for ethanol)

Both will help prevent the car from burning to the ground when it is least convenient.
Maybe do rubber oil lines while you are at it (for the same reason)
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayner View Post
101 projects as mentioned.


First up I would tackle some of the electrical projects to beef things up, like adding relays to the headlight (before upgrading the headlights).

Also, replace old rubber fuel lines (and while at it go with ones rated for ethanol)

Both will help prevent the car from burning to the ground when it is least convenient.
Maybe do rubber oil lines while you are at it (for the same reason)

Keeping it safe and less likely to burn to the ground is a good place to start. Cheap, too.
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:59 PM
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If it was me in your shoes, I would do the following:
Have your mechanic check the fuel and brake systems to verify they are tip top.

If the valves have not been adjusted for more than 15,000 miles get them adjusted.

Even though it us a 2.7 l car, as a '74 it should not have the thermal reactors that cooked the later cases. Verify that you do not have thermal reactors. If you do, they need to go. Discuss with mechanic about options.

Once your car is verified safe and reliable, think about taking yourself and the car to a Few Autocrosses and/or HPDE events to learn how to drive s sports car properly. Once you do this, you will have a better idea of what car upgrades you need to make.

Last edited by HarryD; 05-24-2014 at 01:04 PM..
Old 05-24-2014, 01:00 PM
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With the 101 projects book snd Haynes manual. You can learn to do all of my suggestions by yourself if you are mechanically inclined to do so.
Old 05-24-2014, 01:04 PM
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... IMHO it's not worth putting a ton of money into a standard car. The engine is lower power than an S too, so not much to do there short of 10's of thousands of $.
Your opinion doesn't sound to humble to me....
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryD View Post
If it was me in your shoes, I would do the following:
Have your mechanic check the fuel and brake systems to verify they are tip top.

If the valves have not been adjusted for more than 15,000 miles get them adjusted.

Even though it us a 2.7 l car, as a '74 it should not have the thermal reactors that cooked the later cases. Verify that you do not have thermal reactors. If you do, they need to go. Discuss with mechanic about options.

Once your car is verified safe and reliable, think about taking yourself and the car to a Few Autocrosses and/or HPDE events to learn how to drive s sports car properly. Once you do this, you will have a better idea of what car upgrades you need to make.
One thing both my dad and I can say with certainty, is that there are no thermal reactors on this car.

So I guess the best way to tackle the car would be in this order:

1. Take care of anything that could potentially burn the car to the ground(Fuel Lines and anything Rubber)
2. Electrics(Relays and Bulbs and Fuses)
3. Suspension
4. A good detailing(Paint chips and scratches down to the metal)

And she'll be good as new!
Old 05-24-2014, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl_W911 View Post
One thing both my dad and I can say with certainty, is that there are no thermal reactors on this car.

So I guess the best way to tackle the car would be in this order:

1. Take care of anything that could potentially burn the car to the ground(Fuel Lines and anything Rubber)
2. Electrics(Relays and Bulbs and Fuses)
3. Suspension
4. A good detailing(Paint chips and scratches down to the metal)

And she'll be good as new!
This sounds like an excellent start. With the car checked over and made safe you will have a very fun automobile. I wouldn't worry about any sort of hot-rodding until you have had a good deal of experience driving and servicing the car. You may be perfectly happy with it as it left the factory. After all, it seems that your dad was happy with this car for a very long time.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerome74911S View Post
This sounds like an excellent start. With the car checked over and made safe you will have a very fun automobile. I wouldn't worry about any sort of hot-rodding until you have had a good deal of experience driving and servicing the car. You may be perfectly happy with it as it left the factory. After all, it seems that your dad was happy with this car for a very long time.
He still is happy with it as.
I just want to improve upon what it is as best as possible. While it doesn't have the power or torque as my DD(Focus ST), it's much more fun than it! Though, if the 2.7l ever went out, in the future I could see myself putting in a 3.0l SC motor..

Question, at what point on the engine temp. gauge is the car overheating? Once warm, it always seems to be around 180, but when it got to 210 one time I was driving it home from the carwash on a 75 degree day, there was smoke/steam coming from somewhere and I panicked and pulled into a gas station and waited 30 minutes.
Old 05-24-2014, 02:27 PM
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Stuck heater boxes? You really want to pay for that?
Number one, Buy a scissor lift, you only need a small one. They fit in any garage, lift 3 to 4 feet high. Now your car is accessible.

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Old 05-24-2014, 02:32 PM
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