New 89 Carrera Owner Clutch / Suspension / Brake Questions

[spyerx]

Hey there, picked up a clean 89 coupe that needs a few maintenance items along with some thorough underbody cleaning (top side is mint!).

Not new to porsche, but very new to air cooled world. Nice thing is outside the suspension and no water the underside isn't too much different than my gt3rs! This includes the mess I make every time I dump the oil tank (UGH!!!)

Intended use of car is canyon drives, weekend trips, with a very sporty character. I track a GT3RS with extensive full monoball ohlins suspension, so I know what "firm" is, I'm not looking that extreme. Call it "more sport than GT, but not too much sport" I'm in SoCal. Roads are OK here.

Have a few questions:

--Clutch. Needs one, action is getting notchy(not slipping). I know its a big job. So shop will do this. But, I want to ensure I replace everything clutch related while in there. I see kits that have the PP, TOB, disk. But, I assume I'd want to do guide tube, shift fork, shift shaft, check the slave for action/leaks, various bushings, etc. Is there a comprehensive List of what's a "MUST" and any tweaks/mods suggested? I have the PET

--G50 fluid, Delvac? It's what I use in my RS and I like the action once warmed up. A bit balky when cold. Car has OEM LSD and I'm not concerned about LSD noise.

--Suspension. has original rears it looks like, fronts I think have been done at some point. I want to go through and keep the suspension rubber and replace most of the old stuff. But on dampers. I see a lot of feedback on Bilstein HD and Sports. Is the Sports a good firm setup all around? For now keeping stock torsen bars and sways. On the fronts, is there a way to tell which I have on the car so I can buy the right insert? I know this has been asked 1000 times I've searched, and I'm still confused :-)

--Brakes. Fronts are good, going to grab porter field r4s pads all around, rears need replacing. Fronts on the car now are drilled, unsure brand, need to pull wheels and look. For now would just put zimmermans on, and replace the brake lines all around while under there. OEM brakes on these, were they solid all around? Or were they drilled front/solid rear? And of course a full flush, will probably just use ATE200, I use endless on my RS and don't see the point for this, car won't be tracked. Pedal feel on the 89 is excellent as it is now.

[TheSt|G]

Stick with rubber, but I wouldn't shy away from the slightly sportier rubber that Elephant Racing offers. Just did this to my '85 that shares a similar role to your '89 and I love it. I also wouldn't be afraid to bump the torsion bars up slightly. Really pulls it up off its door handles through the turns.

Most of the good Bilstein setups get them revalved. Factory Bilsteins tend to be a bit harsh for most people's taste. Pull the wheel and look at the strut to check what you have. Boge is black, Bilstein is green, and Koni is red. And at least in the case of my Boge, it was written on the strut as well.

Stock brakes were solid discs front and rear.

[Lyle O]

First off, welcome to Pelican.

On the clutch, you will need to understand what you have now: has it ever been replaced? The two key elements here are the cross-shaft upgrade and the rubber-center disc. If the couch has been serviced in the past, chances are that the cross-shaft has been already upgraded. This was required by Porsche from '89 onwards. Actually, some '88s had it already also, so it is important to note what you actually have. With the upgrade, a different bearing set up is used between the cross-shaft and release fork. Our host offers both the original Porsche version (which requires the mounting ears on the trans housing to be unlarged witha special tool), and an aftermarket version which does not require the enlargement of the ears. Your choice, both work well.
On the fluid, I use Redline, but I do not have LSD. Be sure to use a lube with friction modifiers appropriate for LSD.
Regarding the the center disc, the original had a rubber center spring. Porsche did away with this in later versions, moving to more normal steel springs. You cannot actually get the original any longer, so all replacement options use steel springs. You just need to decides whether to modify to lightweight pressure plate, or other heavier-duty versions (Centerforce, etc.). This depends on what you want to do and the feel you are after.
On the suspension, I agree with the Stig to stay with rubber. Other materials (urethanes) have potential to squeak. For struts, a popular combo is HD fronts, and sports rear, but this will be for a firmer ride and is good for spirited driving. I have a similar set-up in my '87 and love it. Good luck! And, by the way, tradition requires you to post a photo of your car... All the best. Lyle.

[spyerx]

Appreciate the comments. This coming weekend will be taking care of brakes. Pads all around, rear rotors, new brake lines f/r, full flush, full inspection of calipers, new fuel filter, air filter, replace ac and alternator drive belts, and replace driver door seal. that will keep me busy.

On the dampers... so i go by my shop and they have a full set of the billstein sports on the shelf, used on one of their shop cars for a very short time and while it was getting painted. Pulled off and put on some kw competition setup... anyway, they handed to me to use until I figure out what I want to do suspension-wise. They are basically new. So add doing rear dampers too, and will tackle fronts later. The fronts I need to check the part numbers are same as what I need, rears are good.

[Cairo94507]

Congratulations - Love your new car. I am glad it went to an enthusiast who will take care of it as needed.

[spyerx]

Let's see tonight I put new rubber brake lines up front and new pads. Checked out brakes for any leaks or piston issues (all clear), emptied the brake reservoir with my trusty turkey baster, filled it with ate 200 and proceeded to hook up my motive bleeder, pump it up to just under 10 lbs and the pressure drops suddenly and fluid all over the garage floor. Dammit, the overflow tube! it must have been full of dirt as it blew with spectacular fashion on the floor. Clean the mess, rag around the other end of that tube, and vice grips on the overflow and bleed a good 1/2 liter out of the front end.

Tomorrow is rear then a check bleed all around to finish it off. Front brake lines weren't too bad came off easy with pb blaster and proper sk flare wrenches. First one made a mess. Second one I figured it out (been a long time since I've done lines) no corrosion or rust I can find which is the benefit of a San Diego car. But it is dirty as all hell under there. Started to clean and I think I'm going to pay my detailer to steam clean under it on a lift.

Oh and I scrubbed all the leather and vinyl, solid vacuum, treated all leather. Quick interior detail. Will have my detail guy do the carpets early next week. He does by hand and has a proper carpet machine for sucking the crap out of the carpets.