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Front Hood latch adjustment 1971 911T
I had my hood painted by a friend of a friend. He didn't pull my brand new frunk seal, so the buffing process left a lot of gunk on it. I pulled the seal to clean it and ever since (with no seal) the hood latches, but I have difficulty opening it. It's like the spring on the latch post isn't strong enough (without help from the seal pushing up) to push the post out of the latch. I removed the latch from the cable, cleaned it, made sure it was moving freely and then greased it with white lithium grease and reinstalled it.
After this the hood latches and would release if I put some upward pressure on it (Since I was working alone, I rigged some bungie cords under the front lip to pull up on the hood while I pulled the release cable in the car). But it was touch and go. I decided to try adjusting the post. I figured if I shortened the post by screwing it in 1.5 turns it would tighten the spring and give it more force to lift it out of the latch when I pulled the release cable. Now, even with the bungie cords rigged, I can't get it to open. It "pops" when the cable is pulled, but when I go around and lift, it's still latched at least part way. The safety catch that you release by hand at the front is not the issue. If I push down, it latches fully again. Looking for advise. Tom
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1971 Light Ivory 911T - Gretchen - sold Looking for Engine # 6114097 2010 Cayman |
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Oh dear. It does need adjusting but first you need to open the hood right? Pop it then grab the hood and move it fore and aft, left and right while at the same time trying to get it to fully release with little upward motions. What's happening is the lip of the post is catching on the edge of the latch as its out of alignment. Once you get it free, wind the post back where it was and then loosen the entire assembly and eyeball it so it hits the latch centrally. You may need to adjust the angle of the post assembly with a shim so that it enters the latch assembly exactly perpendicular and central. Its an art, not a science. Once you get it latching and releasing OK you can go back to reducing any free play by winding the post in. Good luck with that.
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1972 911T Coupe with a '73E MFI engine and 'S' pistons 10 year resto mostly completed, in original Albert Blue. ***If only I didn't know now what I didn't know then*** |
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Porboynz, that's exactly what I did. Then I went and found some excellent threads on aligning the pin. Here's the basics:
Remove the pin and take off the large locking nut, spring and collar. Thread the pin into the approximate depth required. Take some measurements before you unscrew it! Clean the pin and the latch surface well and then apply some colored grease to the surface of the latch receiver around the hole. Bring the hood down until it barely touches the receiver and then note where the grease is hitting the pin. Adjust, repeat, reinstall collar, spring and locking nut. Repeat the grease test, this will give you a more precise placement. Now you're all aligned! As a side note in my search for information, I found reference from Ed Mayo over on the Early S Reg on how to adjust the cable. On my 71, looking down at the latch receiver from the front of the car, there is a small hole to the right of the receiver hole. Pull the cable until you see a hole line up below in blade that engages the pin. Insert a cotter pin or nail punch or something the same diameter as the hole. Now adjust the cable at the set screw until there is no slack or tension on it. When you remove the cotter pin, the blade should not move, your cable is now perfectly set.
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1971 Light Ivory 911T - Gretchen - sold Looking for Engine # 6114097 2010 Cayman |
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I had forgotten about that grease trick, well done opening Pandora's box though, its a bit freaky when you cannot get it to open.
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1972 911T Coupe with a '73E MFI engine and 'S' pistons 10 year resto mostly completed, in original Albert Blue. ***If only I didn't know now what I didn't know then*** |
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