What does this rust suggest?
 

The attached photos are of the right front fender and battery tray area of a car that I saw that was of enough interest for me to talk to the owner about. In almost all respects it is a car that hits all my important points (excellent mechanically, cosmetically good enough) but these two rust areas are of some concern. I am not sure how much concern they should be, so I thought I'd ask people who know better.

The car is an SC coupe, and otherwise has a perfect body - never hit, original paint everywhere, floors perfect, etc. the owner described these areas to me and took the photos to send me.

The rust on the fender is presumably where it adjoins the firewall/cowl panel. My question is this: can this be addressed by simply replacing the fender (seller has a spare) or is metalwork likely to also be needed on the cowl panel? The former is basically OK with me, the latter probably not.

The other photos are of the battery box area - it looks like the inner fender/body panel that is on the left side of the battery. This is of possibly greater concern to me, as it looks like it has gone completely through that section of sheet metal, but perhaps I am not looking at it right.

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The front trunk rust is due to crap buildup on the exterior surface of the front bumper mount trapping moisture and the rust perforated the inner fender well. Yes, invasive surgery.

The fender could have migrated to the vertical fender support. pull the front wheel and have a look with a good bright light.

That line of rust bubbles is where the inner fender vertical attaches to the fender. I'd say the best course of action is to replace the fender and perform major surgery on the fender mount. With that, it's almost a sure bet there are other rust areas you don't know about...yet.

Look at the back wheel wells up and into the back of the door area. Look at the bottom of the door openings as well

Yep I agree with Jamie. The bracketry which holds the bumper shock absorbers collects a ton of debris- rocks, sand, bits of asphalt, etc. That pile of crud absorbs water and just sits there- a perfect site to foster rust.

If the car had been in crash, those brackets can get damaged and would warrant replacement. If the area where the brackets are fixed/welded to the body is not properly prepped, it would invite major rust like this.

Also keep in mind that a leaky battery can cause rust to start there. That Interstate battery has a vent port right near that awful rust

Agreed with Jamie that this requires invasive surgery. We're talking cut out a section of the chassis tub and replace with donor parts or new parts. Serious work. And when you can see rust on the exterior, 9 times out of 10 there's more to be found where you can't see it. I'd be sure to look at this car with a very suspicious eye.

Tip of the iceberg! SmileWavy

That can't be rust, that is a galvanized body....

Not trying to be a smart a$$ but the number of postings re: don't buy a middie as they rust is BS, i.e. case in point, they all will rust. And as several pointed out, that may be the tip of the iceberg so tread carefully.

First comes love... Then comes marriage...


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Rust at that battery spot due to collecting debris at the bumper bracket suggests there will also be some at the corresponding place in front of the rear wheels - check inside the doors right at the rear edge of the rubber sill cover. I would bet you an alloy lug nut that you could push a screwdriver through the door sill.

Post a picture of the door jams, sills, and lower areas around the windshield and rear windows.

No- wait a minute-disregard my first post- this one is better:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435361031.jpg

Typical rust....started with the 356 and continued.

Run from the car as fast as you can unless he's practically giving it away

SCs had rust galivination......so, something is wrong. Heavy salt state?

If so, heavy discount, but replacement panels ARE available. Depends on your level of commitment.

I tend to assume if there is rust somewhere (especially that badly) there is rust in other places as well. They are also prone to rust around the sills where road salt and stuff gets flung up and forward by the back wheels then holds moisture in. This is a place you can't see and is a PITA to fix when the car is torn down for repairs.

But good luck. Not trying to be negative, but just hoping to help you avoid costly, unforseen things that come along with these cars - did I mention headstuds.

Project McDonald's? ;) :)

Unless you are a great body guy (cutting, fashioning panels, welding) you will be into deep pockets territory right quick.
For a long hood, at prices today, you can do well.
Prices on SC's are moving upward but not at the level yet where you could part that work out and be good.

To answer your original question, it probably means there's more rust....hope you know how to weld..
-C

Seller has a spare fender, but didn't bother to replace it?
That always makes me pause. Like he figured out it was more complicated than that.

Seller said he has a spare fender but since it's in a different color, it would have to be painted to match, and since the rest of the paint is sort of weathered that would mean reprinting the whole car, and then you start driving it less, etc. i could see myself making the same decision.

Regardless, while I will ask for some picture on some of the above mentioned areas, I am probably going to pass on the car because of that. My Fiat has rust, and I don't want to deal with any more rusty cars....

I think that is a very good move!

I don't think Californians are qualified to comment on rust ;)

Signed, Wayne from Canada:D

Personally, I look at that straight line of rust on the fender and question the authenticity of the claim the car has original paint. It looks to me like the inner fender panel was welded and then not prepped right. The orange peel in the picture makes me question the original paint claim and in that year there should have been all that rubbler like goo that Porsche put on these cars that sealed the inner fender bracket to the fender itself. It shouldn't have rusted along that line unless the seal was broken.

Just my .02.
Probably a good call to walk away.

Can we say 74 or 75 fender was available in the past 36 years from mishap
Leaking battery acid at the battery box and left side of the suspension pan
Battery dead then frozen would split acid all over, maybe then it sat for a couple years
Bruce

That line of rust along the fender bolt flange is very common, even on galvanized cars. The vertical line down the fender is also fairly common, particularly in cars driven through slushy, salt infused winter weather and then not flushed out and cleaned. That car has many rust demons lurking in its nooks and crannies.