How To: Installing Bilstein Front Inserts on 89 Carrera with Boge Struts
 

Just went through this, installed bilstein sport struts on an 89 carrear with Boge factory struts and factory inserts. I found a lot of threads with partial info so thought I'd summarize here. Overall install was pretty easy. Benefits of a SoCal car, parts come off pretty easy.

1. Put front of car up on jack stands and remove wheels
2. Pull back carpet
3. Flatten lock washer on both sides strut bolts
4. Use 22mm socket to remove bolt, I used an impact (very light setting) to remove, thread nut back on on a few turns
5. Use a flange wrench to remove rubber brake line at the body, plug and put to the side. Tip here is use a board or something to press brake pedal about 2" or so, wedge against seat, I think I dropped 2 drops of brake fluid. This keeps fluid from flowing.
6. Pull off and unplug the brake sensor, put aside.
7. Put a blanket over fender, hang it below wheel well to keep from scratching fender
8. Pull damper down, guess is it should be easy, mine were destroyed after 25+ years, pull out and remove top cap
9. Get a big pipe wrench, unscrew the top cap, this requires some torque to remove. I put the strut top lightly back in the top mount for better leverage, pull the strut back out
10. Once the top is loosened, keep it just a few threads tight, get a massive number of rags, towels, plastic bags, make sure you have some sort of pan or something to keep the coming mess from getting everywhere.
11. Extend the shock, do this before removing from the body, will minimize the mess. I learned this on the 2nd one.
12. Unscrew the cap all the way and remove the insert. There is a sleeve that will come out along with the piston, dump the oil in this sleeve into a container and wipe off all the parts, put aside
13. Use a hand pump or, like i did, a bunch of shop paper towels to suck up all the oil INSIDE the damper. there is a lot. Probably took 10 towels rolled up. Basically lay 2 paper towels and roll them up, then just drop down let it soak up the oil, pull it out, flip around. i used a long nose pliars to grab the paper towel and a screwdriver handle to push down in the shock. Eventually it will be clean. Put these in a bag.
14. Drop the new strut in the upright, tighten to 95 ft lbs (TIGHT) with the spanner wrench or a pipe wrench. My shop made me a spanner that would fit from another brand of shock wrench. My shock came with 2 different top nuts, one inside, one outside. I used the outside only.
15. Put the cover on the top of the shock
16. Compress the shock all the way, (this requires some weight to do) work fast and get it in there and in the hole. You may need to use a screwdriver to lightly work the threaded portion up to get a nut on
17. use the old nut to pull the shock all the way up into the top mount, remove the old nut
18. Put the washer and the new locknut that came with the bilstein, tighten. i also hit this lightly with an impact (light setting)
19. Replace carpet
20. replace brake line, brake sensor
21. bleed caliper
22. Put wheel on and torque
23. Repeat for other side

I think this covers all the steps.

Not a hard job, a bit messy. First one took me 2x as long as the second :-)

Like you said it is messy. Other than that nothing major. Thanks for doing the write up.

You forgot to reset the ride height.

I know when I went from Boge to Bilstein Sports on my car the front end say way up high when I finished.

Yes, I didn't list that. Both front and rear sitting about 1/2" higher now. Car needs and alignment which is why I didn't do it. Will get that done all at once.

You don't need to remove the brake line, just remove the clip and push the line through the bracket so it doesn't get stressed. Raise the a-arm with a jack or set the car down on the tire to push the threaded shock top up enough to get the nut on. Do one side at a time or you will fight the sway bar tension.

I'm trying to picture this. If I pull the clip on the body I'm stressing the hard line. Is that the clip you are referring to? I tried all sorts of angles (I did not remove the steering tie rod) and it seemed to want a lot more room, hence the line removal.

I found the most recent thread about using Bilstein inserts with Boge struts. I picked up used inserts but the gland nut has inside threads and my 87 Targa Boge struts require a nut with external threads. Does anyone know where I can get replacements. It doesn’t appear to be very straightforward. Thanks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588964184.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588964479.jpg

I’m always amazed to see members of this forum with thousands of posts! Well after a little over 9 years on this 911 tech forum this is my 1,000 post. Many many questions. Thanks for all the support!

Mike

You received the wrong inserts. 3/85 Boge changed from an internal thread to an external thread. You need the later units.

Will they work if I can find the right nuts?

Yes. They often come with both sets, inner and outer.

Thanks guys!! The search is on. The gland nuts I’m looking for seem to be as scarce as hens teeth.

Get in touch with Bilstien, they're right in San Diego.

Ah the beauty of being on the West Coast! Frost warning here in Ohio. Just back in from covering Grandma Joni’s lilac. You know the saying when Grandma ain’t happy NOBODY is happy.

Would an inside to inside threaded adapter (previously known as female to female) work if worse came to worse? It would add length, OK or not?

Nope, Got to be the right part, any adaptor will not allow you to properly secure the insert in the strut.

Female to female #metoo ???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Got it. Thanks! I suppose not as much a fuss over a male to male adapter.

I have a couple of new ones if you can't get them from bilstein.

Thanks John. I sent you a note. Appreciate the offer!!

Does anyone grease the shock insert or add oil into the strut tube? I seen some people do this. It doesn’t really make sense to me.

No, not necessary with Bilstein in the Boge strut. Cannot comment on other brand inserts, but I doubt it. More important is getting the old oil OUT of the strut tube before you put the new insert in.

Thanks!

The theory is that the oil helps transfer heat from the shock to the strut and keep it cooler. Like thermal paste does, one it is a liquid so it stays in place.

Has anyone experienced a spacing issue with Bilstein inserts? The left Boge strut and Bilstein insert are happy, but the right side I'm getting a rattle as there is a bit of a gap. How best to tighten up the spacing?

I'm just getting back in the 911 game after about 30 years, and it's been a long time since I changed strut inserts on anything, so I have a few questions. I just got an '87 Targa and am making my list of what should probably be done to it, and all the suspension pieces appear to be original, so shocks and struts should probably be on the list.

1) Do all the late-80s Carreras have Boge as their OEM strut housing? Is there something specific to look for to verify that? (Mine are pretty much covered with grime, so I'm assuming they've never been replaced. I suppose I could clean off the housings and see if there are any identifying labels, etc.)

2) Despite the word "carpet" in step 2, I'm assuming that refers to the trunk liner, and not interior carpet.

3) Maybe I just missed this in the original steps, but when the top bolts are disconnected from the body, will the entire housing sink down far enough for the top of the housing to pivot out from the wheel well without having to disconnect the lower bolts, to allow the insert to be removed while the housing is still attached to the vehicle?

4) I didn't see any mention of spring compressors, but I would assume that's one of the required tools for this. That's what I recall doing in the past, and it's my understanding undoing the top bolt while the spring is still exerting force would make one a potential Darwin Award winner.

5) What is the solution (or is there one) to the ride-height issue (raised by 1/2 inch) that was pointed out? I was actually hoping to lower mine slightly, not raise it up. Is there a particular reason to go with the Bilsteins even though they apparently introduce this issue?

6) Finally, is it worth replacing any bushings during all this? Again, I suspect mine are original, meaning they're 33 years old at this point.

Thanks for any information.