Temp gauge ok or running hot?
 

I was driving my new to me 930, first time on a hot day. It was 85 degrees out, and I was driving it at around 3 - 4K rpm for about 45 mins and I noticed the temperature reading was higher than the middle or 9:00 position. I was told this may be high but I am unsure. Also, I am unsure if the stock 930 temp gauge needs to have a different sender that is on the newly transplanted 3.6. the car has two oil coolers. The one in the passenger front wheel wheel looks to be stock (I do not see a fan there though, not sure if that's normal), and that cooler is plumbed to another aftermarket cooler in the drivers side front, no fan there either. Question on if the temp reading is too high and also if I should have a fan or different sender. Thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436492543.jpg

I have been chasing an over heating problem on my 911 3.2. I believe that second white line your needle is nearing is 248 degrees. You can tell by looking in at an angle towards the center of the gauge. There will be some tiny markings denoting the temp for each line. I used my iPhone to take a picture, to blow up and read them. They are in celsius.

As for 2 hot, I cannot say. I am chasing a problem myself. I am new to air cooled Porsche's. My experience with other cars is that an oil temp of 250 is too hot. Also check my thread, people posted some good info.

If it is indeed accurate, that seems hot for the amount of oil cooling you have. I have just one carrera cooler and only hit those temps after sitting in traffic for a long period of time.

Thanks guys. I checked out the thread. I lot of good (and healthy) discussion there too. Thanks again. I think at a minimum, I should get a fan on there. Seems like a good place to start.

Full boost at idle ....its gonna be hot ;)
Ok, I agree it warmer than it should be give the extra rad you have. Like DucH mentioned fan can be unplugged, etc. ....get your self an IR thermometer and check.

Check the plumbing from the oil thermostat (behind rear right wheel) up to the front. There known to get crushed by people putting jacks where they don't belong et.

Mine was running a little warm after I bought it so I added a 44 row cooler with a fan in the right front. I have the fan on a manual switch for total control, no more problems.:cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436538294.jpg

Since you have a transplant, you should check the part number on the sender and determine if it's the right match for your gauge. There are threads here with this information described that you should be able to find with the search. If it's not matched then you can't be sure the gauge information is accurate. There are also threads on how to calibrate your gauge with boiling water as well that you may find helpful.

I believe if you look to the very furthest leftmost section of your temp gauge you will see the actual temp numbers - might be different in that gauge but that is my recollection.

If I were you, I would get a numeric gauge for your 3.6 transplant and the associated sender for peace of mind. It is a cool upgrade (so to speak).

I'd run with what JDub had to say. Make sure everything syncs with the 3.6, that gauge is likely not off by much but inaccurately reading none-the-less considering you have 2 coolers.

FWIW, I removed the trombone (what a laughable piece of garbage) and installed a later cooler (sans-fan) in my '78SC. On a 90deg day cruising about 75-80mph(3krpm-ish) my gauge sits right about there. I'm cool with that as it was otherwise at the upper white mark with the trombone. On cooler (70deg or less) days i'm sub 9 O'Clock on the reading.

Like 911Saucy, with my insufficient trombone cooler only on my '83 i stay at the 2nd white line all day long in the 90 degree days here. Too damn hot in my opinion but also seems average for bone stock setups like mine.

Did these things run that hot when new without supplemental cooling? (sorry, i'm a new owner too).

IMHO anything at 9 o'clock or above is too hot, unless caught in traffic. I have the early eighties 28 tube brass cooler and even with a/c on at 95 degree days, it stays around 210 (the first line).
If you run a radiator type cooler, put a fan on it as they require airflow to work.
Anything above 230 means increased valve guide wear and other nasty things. Nine hundred dollars spent on a good cooling system is cheap in the long run.

Not sure if using the AC would have impact on the engine temp. On most cars they tell you to turn on the AC when the car is overheating so the additional fan for the condenser will aid in cooling the radiator that is right behind it.

Not that useful on air-cooled motors but i digress...

So on a completely bone stock 3.0 in 95 degree whether, what is normal?
I'm starting to think that even when new, the temp gauge often registered on the 2nd white line in the hot summer days. Is that not true?

83SC euro with Carrera oil cooler/block off unit/fan. 95-100 degree day running 75 mph for 40 minutes @ 195-205 degrees (have numbers on the gauge)...put the fan on (switched not thermostat controlled) and it will drop temps about 7-10 degrees.

Based on your description of the situation above I wouldn't worry too much about that temp. You are using a good quality oil for aircooled engines, right?!

Two cheap and effective cooling mods are to remove the front fog lights and make a block off plate under the cooler to the front valance which boxes in the cooler(s). If you do both your gauge would probably be reading 8-9 o'clock under the same circumstances.

Thanks a ton - guys. A lot of good info here. I have some homework, thanks! One question, I see that small 12volt fans are relatively inexpensive but I do not see wiring there on my car for one. I figured its easy enough to get power to it with a switch but don't I need a relay? If so I'm not sure how to hook that up. I suppose I can look for a fan with a wiring kit and relay too. If anyone can help in this area, please let me know. Thanks again!

With your set-up of the additional cooler, I would make sure that oil is actually flowing, the above mentioned infrared thermo will be great for that job. At temp, the stock cooler, added cooler, and oil tank should all be roughly the same temp or each a bit cooler in the previous. A fellow 911 owner had a cooler in the front valence and the car ran hot, turned out that the front cooler had an air bubble and the oil never flowed. The gauge would climb above that second line but you could put your hand on cooler.

Great point. Yes agree on the IR thermo. I want to get one anyway. This is a good reason!

I purchased my oil cooler and fan from BAT, Inc. - MOCAL Oil Coolers
it came with a fan relay and wiring. I couldn't find my wiring diagram but here is a generic one. I used a switch instead of a thermostat for the fan.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436623213.gif

That temp is not bad for a turbo on a hot day.