Strut brace 1982sc - any recommendations ?

[PWICK911]

Looking to fit a strut brace to my 1982sc.
Any recommendations.

I don't want weld on braces! They must be bolt on to standard strut top.

Cheers

[PWICK911]

Or pictures please

Thanks

[tirwin]

Elephant Racing has a basic and a quick change brace. I have the quick change and you don't have to weld anything, plus you can add to it as necessary.

[bkreigsr]

Whatever you end up using - stay away from the one's that bolt to the strut top. (Weltmeister). The strut top needs to move as the suspension cycles. Most of the good one's now bolt to the camber plate bolts.
Bill K

[Porsche 2]

Will you be auto-xing or tracking the car? If not, you will be giving up useful trunk space for almost no noticeable handling gain.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

Whatever you end up using - stay away from the one's that bolt to the strut top. (Weltmeister). The strut top needs to move as the suspension cycles. Most of the good one's now bolt to the camber plate bolts.
Bill K

I think I have this. Can you clarify the flaw?

I was thinking of removing it, b/c it gets in the way, and I don't really drive aggressively. Is this easy to remove?
I'm mot sure what OEM looks like, so it's not clear if I just remove the 3 bolts, and then replace them without the bar?
Is there any adjustment that will be lost? (like an alignment)

[Porsche 2]

Jack the car up off the front wheels, and make sure the lower left camber plate bolt (in your picture) is tight. Then loosen the strut bar adjustment lock nuts and twist the bar so that it is out of tension or compression, and then remove the two camber plate bolts and larger shock nut holding the bar "anchor plate" to the car. After removing the strut bar assembly, retighten the same two bolts and shock nut. Point is, the one tight camber plate bolt should be able to hold the camber plate in position through out this process.

[bkreigsr]

sugarwood;8708578]I think I have this. Can you clarify the flaw?

The top of then shock actually pivots on the camber plate - this is by design.
Without the brace on, measure the distance from the inside fender lip to the center of the shock bolt. Jack the car up to raise the wheel almost off the floor. - measure again - two different numbers! Think of it, as the bottom of the strut raises and lowers on the same plane, the top of the shock must move. That's why Tarett and others (ER) make a monoball configuration. The stock camber plate uses a rubber biscuit to control this movement, the monoball eliminates all the slop inherent in the factory bisquit.
Bill K

[Bergo]

look into the rebel s racing strut bar, installation is swapping two bolts with longer ones.



pardon the mess

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by Porsche 2

Jack the car up off the front wheels, and make sure the lower left camber plate bolt (in your picture) is tight. Then loosen the strut bar adjustment lock nuts and twist the bar so that it is out of tension or compression, and then remove the two camber plate bolts and larger shock nut holding the bar "anchor plate" to the car. After removing the strut bar assembly, retighten the same two bolts and shock nut. Point is, the one tight camber plate bolt should be able to hold the camber plate in position through out this process.

I'm an idiot. I'm not sure which is the "lower" camber plate bolt? (Frankly, I don't even know what a "camber plate" is, or what it does)
Can you restate your directions using these numbers?
Pretend you're talking to an 8 year old who has never seen a suspension, but knows how to use tools.

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

sugarwood;8708578]I think I have this. Can you clarify the flaw?

The top of then shock actually pivots on the camber plate - this is by design.
Without the brace on, measure the distance from the inside fender lip to the center of the shock bolt. Jack the car up to raise the wheel almost off the floor. - measure again - two different numbers! Think of it, as the bottom of the strut raises and lowers on the same plane, the top of the shock must move. That's why Tarett and others (ER) make a monoball configuration. The stock camber plate uses a rubber biscuit to control this movement, the monoball eliminates all the slop inherent in the factory bisquit.
Bill K

Thanks for trying, but suspensions are a blind spot, so this explanation is lost upon me.

Bottom line: Should I remove my Weltmeister strut bar?
Does it actually do anything beneficial?

[bkreigsr]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Does it actually do anything beneficial?

Yes. It keeps the strut towers from flexing towards or away from each other.

[Porsche 2]

Sending PM.

[Busta Rib]

I got mine from Automotion. It is a CF piece and costs about $200.

[PWICK911]

I've fitted turbo track rod ends and new bushes. Also replaced strut top camber plates.
The strut brace is really just to finish off the front suspension geometry and to keep
The strength whilst pushing hard.

Not too bothered about space in the trunk!

Been advised not to fit strut top mounting units.
I do like the black strut brace! Is it carbon or just carbon look? Busta rib