Pelican Parts Forums - Help with lambda/freq valve test please

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Cool thanks Bob - PM me your "send to" address and I'll send it next week.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8725190)

Cool beans.

Translation = "Pawn shop, here I come"!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 (Post 8725195)

Translation = "Pawn shop, here I come"!

Humility is an option.

Be more like me and less like you.

Crow muncher.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8725205)

Be more like me and less like you.

Crow muncher.

I had better start eating more than crow then - will be some serious work to put on 200+ pounds, Bro!!!!!! :D

Warm weather........

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8725167)

Definitely different from mine. Let's try mailing me yours for fun.

1:45 may be too slow but not by a lot. CCP and ohms are wrong. Ohms may cause the slower WCP but not a crisis. Let Tony set your CCP.

Resid pressure is ok.

Bob,

Getting from cold to warm transition state under 2 mins. is tolerable during this time of the year because of the warmer weather. But when the weather starts to cool down like fall, winter, and spring it would take much longer to get the engine to warm up. And the erratic cold idle would be more noticeable during colder seasons. On the contrary, the transition is not too slow.........but rather quick or faster than ideal.

Tony

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 8725220)

On the contrary, the transition is not too slow.........but rather quick or faster than ideal.

No argument. I do remember reading that the newer SC's would reach full warm in a fairly short period of time but I cannot remember the time window. Memory says shortly after one minute.

That is memory without a referencing a real source.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 (Post 8725215)

will be some serious work to put on 200+ pounds, Bro!!!!!! :D

Perhaps you could then free yourself from your waifish physical structure.

It could be a win for all. You gain some weight and at the same time climb down off of my back.

WUR-090 evaluation tests........

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazzerr (Post 8725106)

Bob,

Awesome glad you are making progress. I hope you are back on the road soon. I would have bought those H4's and trim rings off ya :).

Some progress!

First - here's the innards of my Actron. The circuit board says it's "version 2.0". So we might have a real clue here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437787951.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437787991.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437788022.jpg

When I reassembled the unit the switch now works properly ...

I also did a pressure test:

1. Year of engine: 1982
2. US or RoW (Rest of World): USA
3. WUR model number: 090
4. Ambient temperature at time of test (in degrees C): 33.6 degs C
5. WUR Resistance (in Ohms): 10.1 ohms (out of spec)
6. System Pressure (in bars): 4.6 bar (seems in spec)
7. Cold Control Pressure (in bars): 2.3 bar (out of spec)
8. Warm Control Pressure (in bars): 3.6 bar (seems in spec)
9. Time delta for Cold -> Warm Control Pressure (in minutes & seconds): 1:45 (too fast?)
10. Residual Pressure @ 5 min (in bars): 2.1 bar
11. Residual Pressure @ 15 min (in bars): 1.7 bar
12. Residual Pressure @ 30 min (in bars): 1.55 bar
13. Residual Pressure @ 60 min (in bars): 1.35 bar

Based on this I pulled the WUR and I'll send it Tony for testing on Monday.

What do you guys think?

Gary,

The package arrived yesterday (Monday) and did some tests today (Tuesday). Results were very similar for test #4 up to test #8. The biggest difference was test #9. See data below:

#4. Ambient temp. @ 30 deg. C (85 deg. F)
#5. Resistance value @ 85 deg. F = 10 Ohms.
#6. System pressure = 70 psi.
#7. Control pressure = 4.8 bar (70 psi.).
#8. Warm control press. = 52 psi.

Here is the difference:
#9. Delta time (sec.) from CP to WCP = 45 sec.
0 to 30 sec. @ 48 psi.
30 to 45 sec. @ 52 psi.

The transition time from cold control fuel pressure to warm control pressure for this particular WUR is too fast or too short @ 45 sec. Considering that it is summer now with ambient temperature in the 80's and 90's, the erratic cold idle would be worse or very noticeable when the temp. gets cooler in the fall, winter, and spring. The problem or culprit is the out of spec. heater resistance of 10 Ohms.

Tony

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 8729420)

The problem or culprit is the out of spec. heater resistance of 10 Ohms.

Just talking tech. Not arguing.

The WUR is not correct. It is really only 30 seconds to WCP. The last four psi in 15 seconds is of little consequence. After 30 seconds, it's in range which is too lean.

Let's say 2 more minutes needed (post 30 seconds)in Georgia, late July, hot as hell, to allow the engine to catch up with the incorrect WUR setting and make it ok.

It's not correct for a controlled warm up at all, but stand alone, after the two-three minutes of engine warm up, this should not be an issue with engine function?

gazzerr's MIGHTY Actron below mine on bumper. Working fine.

Assumption is new Actron's cannot handle the signal from the Lambda box because of new innards. Mine is old. Probably 10 years-ish.

Five peeps that I am aware of have Actron's that "don't work" J Williams, gazzer, Tony, universeman and tirwin.

What the heck? Is it a line feed from the Lambda box issue?

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Et9tE-10mYI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Cool thanks for doing that Bob!

So there you go - interesting ... I wonder if the reading of 6 I was getting was actually correct?

The switch on it was weird. There was no middle "detent". Once I pulled it apart and reassembled you could reliably switch it into the middle position. I also zeroed it properly (even though it did read zero when offline) - the adjuster on the front of it didn't work properly.

I guess we'd have to capture the waveform from your lambda box and compare it to mine for example and see if they differ. I could get one of those cheapo oscopes.

Mine's an '82 - they should be the same spec motor as an '81 right?

So maybe that was it. Crazy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazzerr (Post 8738467)

I could get one of those cheapo oscopes.

You may just be stinkin' rich.

Tony will advise when ok to pull out Excalibur.

Look away, young Skywalker.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438659478.jpg

I will try mine again. I don't think I ever got it to read anything at all. I will also check using the duty cycle function on my meter.

Jim Williams got his to work. He just said there was a good bit of variation in the accuracy of the Actrons he tested when compared to the oscilloscope.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8738502)

Tony will advise when ok to pull out Excalibur.

Look away, young Skywalker.

One can only imagine what substance you used for Excalibur's assembly glue - DNA testing required for identification, no doubt! :eek:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 (Post 8738558)

One can only imagine what substance you used for Excalibur's assembly glue - DNA testing required for identification, no doubt! :eek:

I used measuring tools before JB. Measuring tools are special things you would have to travel a long way to find, living in Rockwall.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tirwin (Post 8738549)

Did not know this. That's promising actually that this testing procedure can roll forward.

Downside is, my legacy Mighty Actron is no longer worth the $5,000 I have it listed for on Craigslist.

I could see a slight numeric difference between Gary's and mine. We all know this is second or third string compared to real sniffing tools but these can get you pretty close.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8739078)

I used measuring tools before JB. Measuring tools are special things you would have to travel a long way to find, living in Rockwall.

I know of a certain tool located in Akron, OH - well worn but still usable, so I hear!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 8739090)

. . . We all know this is second or third string compared to real sniffing tools . . .

:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438707635.jpg

My CIS is back together and running great. I could never get the Actron to work properly on my '82. I ended up using a Craftsman multimeter with duty cycle function and I dialed it into 55% duty cycle. The OXS dithers between the high 40's and low 60's so I *think* it's working correctly. The exhaust doesn't smell at all now and the car runs much much better. No putt putt or slight miss at idle now.