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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO 80126
Posts: 225
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Rear torsion bar removal
Am I missing something? I can seem to remove the rear torsion bars. I have the four bolts and the side plate removed. I have even removed the trailing arms. The front bars were corroded pretty bad so I am afraid the rears are as well. Before I start pounding too hard, are there any clips or pins that I should have removed?
Thanks, Rich |
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09-30-2001, 04:54 PM
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Not Quite Banned
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 1,222
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The bars are just slightly rusted and they are caught in the inner splines. If you can, spray some Blaster far back into the tube where the inner splines are. You can then clamp something like a (real) large pair of vise grips onto the bar just where it leaves the tube. This will give you something to pry out on. Once you have at least one out you can drive the other one by using a long rod inside the torsion tube from the opposite side of the car.
Good luck. There are no other 'clips or pins' to remove. [This message has been edited by towen (edited 09-30-2001).] |
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09-30-2001, 05:12 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Spartanburg,SC,USA
Posts: 244
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I used a nylon strap and a dent puller. Inertia does wonders. Good luck leveling her back up!
------------------ Duane '73 914, '76 912E, & '76 VW BUS (ALL 2.0L) |
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09-30-2001, 07:24 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX USA
Posts: 9,804
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Rich,
Remove the torsion bar access covers. Put small block of scrap wood over end of torsion bar to prevent damage, and use a six-inch-long 3/4" drive extension, pounded very carefully with large, copper/brass-faced mallet ... alternate sides every couple of minutes until one or the other bar shows movement. Then, just drive the bar fully out from the other side. Once a single bar is out, use a long broom handle to drive the other bar out from the opposite side. Good luck! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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10-01-2001, 07:16 AM
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Formerly bb80sc
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hollywood Beach, CA
Posts: 4,361
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If you have not already removed the spring plate, be sure to scribe its position on the inner wheel well. You'll be glad you did when you re-install it. Otherwise, it may be a lot of fun trying to get the height set correctly on both sides. Are you planning on changing the bushings as well? Another fun project
 .-Brad 80SC |
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10-01-2001, 11:43 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Greenfield, IN
Posts: 412
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This may seem logical, but I (and I'm sure many others) overlooked it. If you're going with larger than stock bars, they will sag less (preload). I scribed a line where my arms were, then set it back to that w/ the new bars and it sat about an inch to high so I had to do it all over again. If you're going thicker, plan on lining up the arm slightly higher than your line.
Colby |
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10-01-2001, 06:36 PM
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