New Brakes!

[ClickClickBoom]

Well,
The collection of parts once again was mocking me. I installed the StopTech drilled rotors, all four corners. Added some Pagid RS4-4 into the mix, went to the PMB website for bedding procedure( PMB - Pad Bedding ).
I must say, I was originally unimpressed, the discs and pads stopped ok. The PMB instructions were nothing less than comprehensive, went out on the BCGP course and followed the PMB instructions, holy schmoly, the difference is unreal, the new combo will pin you against the windshield, all the braking markers are too far out, add tires with a wear rating of 140, means this sucker will stand on its nose. I had forgotten just how good Pagid Oranges are, add new discs and proper bedding procedures and it's a whole new ball game! I added some Volvo Teflon grease to the pad backing edges and this combo is stealth!
5 Star mod!

"New Pad Bedding/Break-In
How to break-in your new pads for optimum performance

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! PMB Performance does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. "

[ClickClickBoom]

Well,
I am on a roll, got my PMB overhauled Carerra wide "A"s, with speedbleeders yesterday. Installed the stainless braided DOT approved brake lines and called the front good. Bled the ATE SuperBlue out and used the SuperGold till the pedal was stiff, too easy really, all total about 3 hours. Test drives show rock solid braking, to the threshold, and dead straight, like before. I guess it's about getting 30+ year old brakes overhauled/upgraded before a catastrophic failure manifests at the most in-opportune moment. 5 star project, and a 2.5 banana mechanical rating. Very satisfying!
Postscript, the Pagid Oranges are really amazing pads, when cold the work pretty good, get some heat in them and they are like dropping anchor, and very easy to modulate at the threshold.

[joe payne]

Gotta love the speedbleeders!

[winders]

Or you get some PFC 11 compound pads for less money and bypass all the crazy bedding procedures....and get better performance.

[ClickClickBoom]

All depends on the brake system type.

http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf

Your company:

http://www.pfcbrakes.com.au/techtips.php?pageId=18

Bedding is required/necessary in many cases.

That is why I posted the bedding procedure. YMMV

[ClickClickBoom]

Well,
The quest for fresh brakes is almost complete. I installed the rear PMB calipers, along with the DOT stainless steel brake lines, ran some ATE gold through the system. System is now rock solid, and with the exception of the master cylinder is pretty solid. Now wondering if a boosterless master cylinder is possible. some guys were using ATE masters from other cars. Will start a fresh thread for that quest. Still say its a 5 star/2.5 banana project, and my torn dust boot, 30 year old calipers are replaced and all flexible hoses are refreshed, nice fresh Stoptech discs finish the mix.

[Bob Kontak]

Thanks, CCB.

I like the PMB warning about appearing an idiot.

I perform drive cycles sometimes to clear OBD monitors. I have to go on I-77S from Akron to keep sustained speed without stop signs. Naturally the required speed is something like 57.5 to 59.1 MPH for eighteen minutes followed by a no brake deceleration to 8 mph and then repeat, but only with 12.7% throttle utilization on acceleration from 8MPH.

Southbound truckers are not that impressed. Often have to use the shoulder lane pulling off the odd-ball stuff.

That said, I put new pads and rotors on an '04 Volvo S60 yestrday. Going to try a "wimp" version of the PMB procedures tomorrow. Just a boring S60 - not an R.

[winders]

PFC 11 compound bed in procedure? Put them in and go race!