Alignment advice

[zl0ca]

I have an appointment tomorrow to have my car aligned.
It sits at 24.5 in the back and 25 in the front. Any advice for mostly street application in case it comes up?


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[T77911S]

height is not to the ground. its the center of the wheels to the center of the T bars

[virob]

I'm getting mine aligned tomorrow as well. The recommendation I'm getting is to go slightly more negative camber than stock. Up to -1.5 in the rear and -1 up front for a street car. Caster and toe keep to spec. Your ride height is a little lower than spec, and should be fine. Are you getting it corner balanced? If so, your ride height might get individually adjusted at each corner.

[zl0ca]

Originally Posted by virob

I'm getting mine aligned tomorrow as well. The recommendation I'm getting is to go slightly more negative camber than stock. Up to -1.5 in the rear and -1 up front for a street car. Caster and toe keep to spec. Your ride height is a little lower than spec, and should be fine. Are you getting it corner balanced? If so, your ride height might get individually adjusted at each corner.

The car is already corner balanced. My neighbor has scales(I got lucky). Thanks for the input in regards to alignment


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[javadog]

I'd stick to -.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear for camber, no more. Stock caster and toe. Make sure both sides are equal. There's no excuse for "close enough". Front toe is set pressed; probably few shops do that.

JR

[Driven97]

1/2 tank of gas (21 gallon tank is ~130lbs different empty to full, enough to make a difference.)

Have them load the car how you normally drive it. No cargo and solo? Your weight in the drivers seat. Normally chauffeur Sumo wrestlers around and deliver lead bars out of the frunk? Put appropriate weight in the passenger seat and cargo area too.

Even for a street car I prefer some negative front camber on modern tires, especially if you're running larger than 15". I don't like the OE 0° spec up front. Even on gentle bends a softly sprung stock car leans over multiple degrees, and the negative camber counteracts that. Also camber doesn't get you weird tire wear unless you're running some pretty aggressive numbers (-3.0° or more.) I'll always advocate for more negative camber, but that's a personal crusade, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

Caster affects your steering effort and wheel self-centering. OE spec is fine on the street, but make sure they equalize it or you can get a slight but irritating pull. Some shops insist on a small caster difference to account for road crowns, I'm not sold, but whatever. If you run bigger / wider than OE tires and have trouble turning your wheel, you can try and ask for a little less caster.

Toe affects straight line stability. Toe out up front and the car will turn in sharp, but tend to wander a bit on the freeway. I think true zero toe feels just a bit numb/vague. A hair of toe in builds very minor slip angles into the tires and gently loads all the suspension members for nice stable tracking - perfect for street use. Excessive toe kills tires very, very fast though, so use sparingly.

[Jesse16]

Make sure they set the steering wheel straight if toe gets adjusted, that drives me to distraction.